Kinjo: Nikos Politakos at His Best

While the number of restaurants has been rapidly increasing in recent years, paralleling the rise in prices at supermarket shelves, unfortunately, their culinary narratives often lack originality, as they tend to mimic the style—sometimes even the recipes—of already successful establishments. This tedious déjà vu diminishes the element of surprise or, more importantly, the excitement that distinguishes a restaurant meal from the everyday food we consume for sustenance.
Fortunately, there are still some restaurants, such as Kinjo, which, despite having long since moved past the "new arrival" listings in culinary publications (what an unappealing phrase that is!), still fills me with a peculiar, almost childlike excitement whenever I plan to visit. It’s a feeling reminiscent of the anticipation we felt as children when promised something special. In this case, it translates into a keen expectation of a memorable culinary experience.

On a chilly weekday evening, we arrived at Analypseos Square. It was just after nine, but the dining room of Kinjo, nestled in this quiet corner of Vrilissia, was already bustling with a lively crowd of groups and couples—both Greek patrons and a few Japanese diners who clearly appreciated the serious work of chef Nikos Politakos. I’m reminded of what Panos Deligiannis wrote in a previous note, stating that "he has proven to be one of the most skilled and well-trained chefs in Japanese fusion cuisine and exceptionally talented in sushi preparation, as demonstrated by his impeccable fish slicing." 

As we opened the menu, which is constantly changing due to the seasonal availability of fish and seafood, we chose to allow the chef to curate our dining experience in the spirit of omakase.

This gave us the opportunity to enjoy his impeccably sliced sashimi and nigiri while admiring the way he highlighted the unique identity of each type of fish—truly embodying the role of an itamae-san. With each dish, we were able to discern the textures and aromas of every fish, mollusk, and shellfish presented.

As you may know, fish vary in structure and texture, which necessitates different cutting techniques and handling methods depending on the species. Some require aging, while others benefit from marinating in salt (shiozuke), warm brine (yubiki), or miso (misozuke). Conversely, certain types are best highlighted when "dried," wrapped in seaweed (kombujime).

It goes without saying that Nikos Politakos utilizes impeccable ingredients, carefully selecting them and applying distinct techniques for each type. That evening, we were fortunate with the catch, resulting in an exceptional omakase: for the nigiri, he chose bonito, tuna, red mullet, John Dory, and an outstanding white trevally (seasoned with garum), while the sashimi featured scallops, more bonito and tuna, as well as an incredible cuttlefish—its flavour is one I will remember for as long as my memory serves me.

Among the "must-try" dishes in our omakase, I must highlight the usuzukuri carpaccio featuring mackerel as the fish of the day, accompanied by ponzu, rocoto pepper, chives, and mullet roe, as well as his oval gunkan maki with sea urchin (a choice that may have influenced me due to my personal love for the delicacy). However, I want to emphasise the remarkable chawanmushi that arrived in its covered porcelain bowl during our omakase experience. This silky, savoury egg custard, steamed to perfection, is prepared with dashi broth made by the chef himself and is enhanced with mushrooms, sea urchin, and something reminiscent of fish cake—a classic dish in home-style Japanese cuisine that has many aficionados, but might surprise those expecting something different.

Without further ado, rather than detailing each dish, I will summarise my impressions by saying that the restaurant firmly stands by its two-star rating and is well worth the short trip, for some, to Vrilissia. Nikos Politakos`s cuisine is exquisite, featuring the necessary intensity while incorporating a significant dose of Japanese influence, which reflects a balance and respect for tradition. Ultimately, I would describe it as a truly heartfelt cuisine. This is particularly challenging when it comes to ethnic cuisine, like that offered at Kinjo, where the emotional connection to familiar dishes is often absent.

I would like to highlight the restaurant’s strengths, particularly the excellent service, which is both welcoming and courteous. Additionally, if you wish to complement your meal with a cocktail, the bar`s offerings are widely regarded as thoughtfully curated.

Ah! And for those who insist, the katsu sando is one of the best in the city.