Jerár: The modern Bistro of Harry Nikolouzos in Daphni at its Best

Harry Nikolouzos took  a bold risk when he opened Jerár in Daphne, alongside George Kavaklis (Spoiled, Barro Negro). Consider this for a moment: merging two old drugstores on a pedestrian street in an off-Broadway neighbourhood, where the best you might find is a mediocre souvlaki, and then serving dishes like pâté en croûte, okra with kimchi and coulibiac. Despite this challenge, he knew exactly what kind of restaurant he wanted to create and worked very hard to bring it to life. As a result, Jerár was talked about from the start, and the city`s food enthusiasts embraced it wholehearedly. I have followed Harris Nikolouzos`s journey since his time at Dionysus in 2015, and I must say that, a decade later, his evolution as a chef is truly impressive. Today, almost three years after Jerár`s debut, his dishes and techniques exude confidence and reflect the maturity he has developed in the kitchen. While they remain rooted in the culinary codes of bistronomy, they are also intimate, unpretentious, and remarkably delicious. At his side is the talented George Roussakis, whom we previously became acquainted with as head chef at The Zillers during Pavlos Kyriakis` tenure.

I never miss out on Jerár`s homemade charcruterie crafted by Nikolouzos. This time, the flavours were elegant and clean, with the Korfiotiko nouboulo and finocchiona standing out even more. Having savoured countless pâté en croûte  in Paris, I must also tip my hat to his version, which is lemon-centric with a flawless crust filled with deeply delicious pork, foie gras, and dried fruit, all presented in a rustic style perfected with finesse. I also tried a robust Vitello tonnato from the comfort food specials, boasting subtle acidity and a wonderful density in the sauce, while the chunks of raw tuna added additional depth and richness of flavour. I have previously written about his cacio e pepe, which is a reference to "Shrimp Microlimano". On my latest visit, I found it perfected, as the bisque was fantastic. We concluded with my favourite dish at Jerár: the coulibiac, a traditional Russian recipe. The original version typically features two fatty fish layered with rice, herbs, eggs, mushrooms, and vegetables, all rolled into a dough and baked. Nicolouzo`s take on this dish features grilled salmon cooked to a perfect medium-rare, accompanied by a quail egg and an exquisite beurre blanc with a sharp acidity that beautifully contrasts the richness of the dish. In simpler terms, it`s a speciality I would rate an 8 out of 10 and could easily grace the menu of a Michelin-starred restaurant—indeed, it surpasses the coulibiac at Benoit in Paris. The icing on the cake was a surprisingly good lièvre à la royale. Those who appreciate French cuisine know this dish, which consists of braised rabbit in red wine and a thick sauce made from the animal`s heart, liver, lungs and blood, bound with chocolate. It iis one of the holy grails of gastronomy, and Jerár delivers it exceptionally well.

As for the desserts, the Suzette crepes could benefit from a finer texture, and while the sauce was quite tasty, it ended up being a bit coarse. In contrast, the Chicago-style ice cream and Medovik honey pie were much more impressive. I would also be remiss not to highlight the enhancements Jerár has made to its wine offerings with the excellent sommelier Dionysis Vassiliadis. He has enriched the wine list with truly unique selections, and the pairings he created with our dishes were top-notch.

To sum up, Jerár has evolved on every level, and time will only enhance its charm—unless something interrupts this progress. If you haven`t visited yet, it`s definitely worth adding to your schedule soon.