When Nolan opened its doors in 2016, it quickly became a sensation. Its intriguing name, the exotic bistronomic approach of Sotiris Kontizas` kitchen, and the expertise of Elena Mantzourani—who set the standard for exceptional service—combined to create a refreshing influence on Athens` restaurant scene. These elements came together to forge a strong identity that gained traction, particularly following Kontizas` success on Master Chef. Over the past nine years, I`ve had the pleasure of dining there several times, thoroughly enjoying each experience.
Its rare to encounter a restaurant that has maintained eighty percent of its menu unchanged for nearly a decade. This consistency has not only established a reliable kitchen performance but has also ingrained a distinctive and idiosyncratic culinary style in the minds of diners—one that remains uniquely its own and has not been replicated elsewhere. Last December, this journey came full circle as the restaurant evolved into Nolan 2.0.
Michalis Nourloglou is one of Greece`s most talented chefs, with years of experience behind him to his credit. Since 2010, when he began to broaden his horizons, he has created many memorable culinary experiences across various establishments. His tenure at Abovo was particularly remarkable, and at Premiere, he transformed a restaurant that lacked aesthetic appeal into one with genuine gastronomic substance—a remarkable change he championed until the very end. Additionally, he has made significant contributions at Brutus, where he continues to curate the menu.
So, how is he performing at Nolan? Overall, he is doing quite well, which is to be expected from a chef of his caliber. However, given his extensive experience navigating all facets of gastronomy—from street food to fine dining—I anticipated a more innovative approach to the menu structure and a bolder expression of his culinary vision in the dishes. The saying goes, "A winning team doesn`t change." Perhaps Nolan wasn’t ready or willing to embrace a completely new stylistic direction just yet, and I completely understand that. However, this doesn`t diminish the importance of evolution in the dining experience.
The service staff, of course, truly warms your heart. They are friendly, polite, and measured, and their slightly carefree demeanour helps to soften any inevitable missteps or awkward moments that reveal the team`s relative inexperience. With time, they will undoubtedly find their rhythm. However, the wine list—which includes three sparkling wines, seven whites, two rosés, two orange wines, and eleven reds—falls short of expectations for a restaurant of Nolan`s esteemed reputation.
Now, turning to the food, I must highlight two standout dishes that could serve as flagships in the restaurant`s new era. The first is perhaps the most comforting rendition of the best dish I’ve ever had from Michalis Nourloglou during his time at Premiere: a tribute to Pierre Herme`s iconic "Rose of Ispahan". The delicate crumb meat pairs beautifully with the sweet and fruity notes of the lychee, while the subtle acidity from the complex raspberry sauce, infused with rose, provides perfect balance to the flavour. The second dish that captivated me was the beluga lentils, expertly combined with lacquer, pastrami and aged cheese. Each ingredient stands out with its own personality, creating a harmonious blend of flavours that is beautifully showcased in this innovative dish.
The smashed cucumber pairs perfectly with the roasted zucchini, creating a beautiful contrast of temperature and textures, while the dish`s moisture was exemplary. However, the Thai-style prawns with cauliflower and coconut struck me as somewhat bland, lacking the aromas that their presentation promised. In contrast, the pelmeni stuffed with seafood, served in a light beef broth infused with lemongrass, was a truly lovely dish. The beef was cooked to perfect medium rare, offering a rich flavour, while the parmesan sauce, complemented by bok choy and fennel seeds, added a brilliant touch. Finally, while the desserts were enjoyable, they could benefit from improvement, partly due to the chef`s extensive experience in pastry.
I noticed a slight increase in prices, but the ingredients being used now are just as expensive as in the past. For a complete meal, including a bottle of wine, you can expect to pay around €60-80 per person. Nolan is currently navigating an intriguing transformation, with Michael Nourloglou taking over the kitchen and tasked with achieving a challenging goal. The early signs are quite encouraging, but the expectations set by Nourloglou`s reputation and Nolan`s previous track record suggest that the bar must be raised even higher. Personally, I look forward to witnessing this development come to fruition.
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