There has not been a single time over the years that I`ve passed by Zappeion and not glanced over at the Aigli with a sense of disappointment, as it had long lost its former glory. My last fond memory of it dates back to Cibus in 2010, during the tenure of chef Dimitris Dimitriadis. However, this historic landmark of Athens, which opened its doors in 1904, is waking up from a long hibernation and coming back to life, redefining its identity and making a strong return to the forefront of the Athenian dining scene. The renovation of the premises, architecturally designed by Neiheiser Argyros and Ese Studio, is tastefully executed, seamlessly blending modern and classic elements against a charmingly urban background. Beautiful details are highlighted in both the all-day bar-restaurant, which offers a more casual menu, and in the more formal Aigli Restaurant. For instance, the lighting is crafted by Eleftheria Deko & Associates Lighting Design, while the staff uniforms are designed by Orsalia Parthenis.
It was a very cold Monday night when I visited toAigli Restaurant to get a taste of the menu curated by Dimos Balopoulos and George Kyrikos. As a result, the food traffic was understandably low; however, the exceptionally experienced manager and one of the key figures in the restaurant`s renaissance, Nikolas Liapis, informed me that the weekend had seen a popular pilgrimage of patrons. During my visit, I also met one of the most beloved figures in hospitality, Elena Mantzourani, who for many years brought a more human and meaningful dimension to the role of host at Nolan. A restaurant like Aigli, with its historical significance yet firmly grounded in the present, cannot be detached from the everyday life of Athenians or the warmth that visitors to the city should experience. This is why the culinary direction that Aigli has embraced is nothing short of essential.
I tried several dishes from their menu, and I must admit that, while I didn`t have high expectations due to the young age of the concept, I found the standard of the cuisine to be quite good, with a clear intention to gradually elevate the quality even further. I would particularly highlight the rich Athenian salad with fish, crispy vegetables, and pleasant acidity in its mayonnaise, the delicious lachanodolmades (like cabbage dumplings, see the photo above), the expressive pâté, and the spaghetti paired with delightful egg trifle. For desert, Alexandros Koniaris ` luscious tart tatin won me over. The flavours at Aigli evoke a sense of nostalgia—I can’t wait to try the "mouse" next time, as it beautifully blends classic international cuisine with a Greek accent that fits perfectly into its identity. The portion sizes are generous, and the prices are excellent.
Meanwhile, sommelier George Dedes has done an excellent job curating the wine list. I won`t rush to draw conclusions about Aigli just yet, as I plan to return with a more critical eye in the coming months. I hope it maintains the fine trajectory with which it has begun its journey into the future. After all, this is Aigli, and it deserves to succeed.
Info: Zappeion Garden, Athens tel. 2103369300
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