Athens`s restaurant scene continues to welcome new projects at such a rapid pace that it raises reasonable questions about how many more culinary ventures this city can support. However, signs are quickly emerging to distinguish which establishments are likely to fade with time and which ones are here to stay, thanks to their ongoing evolution. Voulkanizater falls into the latter category. The loft-style building previously housed a local tyre repairer shop, known in Greek as "voulkanizater", which inspired its the name. With the arrival of the music bar and restaurant, a new chapter in its history has begun. Today, it has been fully renovated, featuring a rim mounted on the entrance door serving as a nod to its former life.
Given that music is the cornerstone of Voulkanizater, architects Artemis Valyrakis and Giorgos Pakalidis designed an industrial yet chic setting characterised by raw walls, metal accents and deep purple hues, all of which contribute to balanced and clear sound throughout the space. As the night unfolds, the decibel levels rise, and the modern bar—offering signature cocktails crafted by Christos Vagenas (Nōema) alongside world-renowned tyre brands— plays an increasingly prominent role. Additionally, the owners plan to host Paradise Garage nights, inspired by the iconic Manhattan nightclub, featuring a lineup of artists and DJs from Greece and abroad.
The culinary direction, led by by renowned chef Thomas
Matsas (Alemāgou -2 stars FNL; Pāppu, Striggla, Le Sapin), has character and chic creativity, highlighting the chef`s culinary storytelling skills.
My meal began with sourdough bread accompanied by an inventive presentation of butter resembling a candle. As the flame enveloped it, the thyme and garlic-infused butter melted and mingled with salt flakes and ground thyme. The velvety pumpkin soup, enhanced with gingerbread, Gruyère cream, fragrant oil, and beetroot crackers topped with chalafuti, was a delightful starter. Equally was the pairing of honeycomb flowers with Parnassus cheese and olive oil. The hammer collar arrived with a thicker crust than I would have preferred, accompanied by a lovely tartar sauce. A pleasant surprise was the roasted carrots with burnt oil and brown butter, where spicy and subtly sweet elements played beautifully together. The robust, al dente Bolognese made with mutton, complemented by caccio e pepe cream and grated Gruyère, showcased a blend of Italian and Greek influences. I also enjoyed the grilled avocado served with Mykonos sour cheese, chili, and “myronia” greens, as well as the vibrant and flavorful deep trahanas featuring mussels, fish roe, and lemon zest. One highlight of the meal was the organic chicken, roasted on the robata and glazed with chicken jus and ginger, then finished with aromatic olive oil and a blend of spices. Accompanied by exquisite Brussels sprouts, this dish was exceptionally impressive. Additionally, the expertly roasted French-cut lamb, featuring a crispy exterior and a buttery interior, was served alongside perfectly roasted potatoes, creating a delightful combination that truly elevated the dining experience.
After the holidays, additional dishes will be introduced to the menu, with updates reflecting the changing seasons. Among the dishes that the kitchen, with head chef Panagiotis Sarris, is currently developing is the fantastic pork sausage from Elikonas Farm that I had the pleasure of trying. It paired beautifully with a spicy spetsofai ketchup and a cream of mustard, orange and black beer. My dinner concluded with two desserts crafted by pastry chef Konstantinos Petrogiannakis (Gorlomi). The pistachio cream with crabmeat, Greek coffee, and crushed pistachios, was visually striking but didn`t quite match the high standards of the rest of the menu. In contrast, the chocolate mousse, enhanced with extra virgin olive oil, salt flakes, and chocolate ice cream, was a sublime finish to the evening.
The wine tasting experience was expertly curated by George Zervogiannis, Head of Wine at Scorpios Group and winner of the Panhellenic Wine Competition 2024. This talented sommelier aims to "offer the world delicious wines," and he certainly delivered, presenting a curated selection of approximately sixty labels. The collection encompasses both classic and innovative offerings from Greek and international vineyards, showcasing a diverse range of styles. Notably, the selection also includes wines produced through natural and biodynamic methods.
Info. Odyssea Androutsou 17, Koukaki, tel. 210 9229186
*Photos: Anna Tasioula
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