In a small, quiet alley—almost as if you are both inside and outside the bustling Psirri—the new vermuteria Via Maris offers an original and captivating concept for modern meze and drinks in the heart of Athens. While the space initially appears small, is surprisingly spacious, architecturally divided into several levels, with two outdoor areas (front and back courtyards) and three interior sections, one of which includes a large, square bar dedicated to vermouth tasting. The walls are painted in soft beige, and the floor showcases an industrial terrazzo design. The high ceiling reveals the metal nickel ventilation pipes, enhancing the raw aesthetic. Wooden chairs with clean, geometric lines complement the minimalist design, while the tables are topped with white tablecloths. The kitchen is open to the dining area, and the walls are adorned with classic white subway tiles.
The restaurant`s menu, centred around meze, blends influences from the past with contemporary culinary techniques. The name "Via Maris", which translates to "Road of the Sea", reflects its origins, referencing the ancient trade route that linked Egypt, Israel, Turkey, and Syria—regions that contribute many of the spices and herbs used in the dishes. These ingredients are used thoughtfully, creating an original flavour profile without overwhelming the Greek palate with the heaviness often found in Middle Eastern cuisine. The menu has been created by co-owner and chef Ayal Kitches from Israel, with Chef Levis Kodhimaj (known from Masterchef) overseeing the kitchen`s execution. Kodhimaj is known for his meticulous attention to detail in each dish, ensuring a delightful dining experience.
Drinks play a significant role at Via Maris, with vermouth taking centre stage alongside a carefully curated selection of dishes and a concise yet "thoughtful" wine list. There are 12 vermouth options sourced from Italy, France, and Greece, served with soda or sparkling water and the classic garnishes of olives and orange, as well as a selection of cocktails. As the name of the drink derives from the German word "Wermut", meaning wormwood—the herb that imparts the signature bitterness to vermouth—there are several dishes which successfully incorporate this rounded bitter flavour. This is a rare quality and undoubtedly a challenge to achieve technically. The vermouths available include those infused with aromatic herbs (such as wormwood, cardamom, cloves, and citrus peel), spices like cinnamon and nutmeg, and some with a sweeter profile that highlights notes of caramelised sugar and liquorice.
The menu features a selection of small plates designed for sharing, with a primary focus on seafood. It is divided into three sections: Aperitivos, which are paired with vermouth and cocktails; Cold and Crudo, highlighting raw seafood; and Hot Dishes, which offer modern Mediterranean fare infused with subtle Asian influences and more intricate preparations.
A fantastic way to begin your meal is with oysters, served almost "untouched", dressed with a foam of coriander sprouts and a few drops of extra virgin olive oil—enhancing the rich iodine aroma while preserving their delicate flavour. The kingfish sashimi offers a buttery texture and subtle taste, accentuated by fermented soy and a small amount of koji-fermented mayonnaise mayonnaise, with fresh blueberries adding a refreshing note. A standout dish features a log of Spanish goat cheese, half-covered with matboucha—a sauce made from pepper, tomato, and chili—and the other half adorned with za`atar spices. Another highlight is the celeriac dish, where sliced celeriac is grilled on a metal straw and served with tender, crispy pavé potatoes, Béarnaise sauce, and grated dried palamida. Even the tortellini are unique; crafted with rice flour to resemble dumplings, filled with shrimp, Naxian arsenic, and anthotiro cheese, topped with scattered whole shrimp and complemented by a well-balanced bisque. While the chocolate dessert with a feuilletine base, topped with salty capers, fell short of expectations, the overall experience was impressive. The service is top-notch, and the staff demonstrate a thorough understanding of the ingredients in each dish—an essential quality for a restaurant that serves flavours that may be unfamiliar to the Greek public.
Info: Mikonos Street 10, Psirri, Athens, Tel: +302110080529, Operating Hours: 6:00 p.m. - 11:30 p.m., Price: €30-40 for light bites with vermouth; for a more filling meal, plan to budget significantly more.
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