Talented chef Eleni Sarantis and her husband, Vassilis Stefanakis, a well-known figure in the restaurant business, have recently opened their new restaurant venture on the pedestrian street of Salaminos in Kerameikos. Among the owners are the chef`s three brothers and George Tsoumas, a longtime associate of Vassilis Stefanakis.
Osteria Mamma pays tribute to Eleni Saranti`s mother, fulfilling her wish to establish a restaurant where all her children could be involved, thus creating another link that connects their lives. The
renovated two-storey building that houses the restaurant won me at first sight. An open kitchen beckons through large windows that overlook the pedestrian walkway, while the array of tables greets guests upon entering through the iron door reminiscent of an alleyway. Inside, the large hall features a tiled floor and a glass ceiling, evoking the charm of a cozy courtyard. The white
tablecloths on the tables are adorned with tableware from a familiar
yet, unfortunately, almost forgotten era. The atmosphere of warmth is enhanced by the
chef`s comfort food. Through frequent trips to our neighbouring country, she
has added numerous recipes to her repertoire and developed a list of personal
favourites. The menu, consisting of seventeen dishes, incorporates many of these
flavours—predominantly exuberant yet elegantly refined, thoughtfully combining high quality ingredients.
I started my meal with a sourdough and potato focaccia topped with whipped honey ricotta and stracchino —a delicate, soft fresh cheese—garnished with olive oil. Following that, I indulged in an excellent dish of gnocco fritto, which struck a perfect balance of deliciousness and lightness, showcasing beautiful textures.It was served alongside grated Grana Reserva, Bologna mortadella, and truffle mayonnaise, demonstrating the kitchen`s skill in frying. In the arancino, I enjoyed the hidden ossobuco Milanese at its centre, although I would have preferred a lighter breading. The accompanying scamorza cheese sauce added delightful smoky notes, elevating the dish further. A standout was the restaurant`s unique take on classic carbonara, presented in two textures: stuffed pappardelle enveloped in a velvety sauce of egg and cheese, complemented by crispy guanciale. Additionally, the tortelli filled with porcini mushrooms and Jerusalem artichokes, adorned with fresh truffle and coffee, were expertly crafted, although slightly sweeter than I would typically prefer. For my main course, I opted for the braised, tender lamb shank, slow-cooked to perfection in its broth and served with gnocchi Parisienne. To conclude my meal, I was treated to a selection of exquisite pastries, each presented in an enticing bite-sized portion, alongside four options of gelato.
Eleni Saranti`s goal is to frequently refresh the menu, incorporating new dishes while retaining those that consistently rank high among the preferences of the restaurant`s patrons. On Sundays, daily specials will be added—initially one and, in the near future, a second dish, as the chef mentioned—which can be shared among members of a group.
Osteria Mamma`s impressive wine list, curated by sommelier Telemachos Papandreas, features two hundred and fifty selections primarily from Italian, French, and Greek vineyards, along with bottles from other European regions, including those of Spain and Portugal. Osteria Mamma is a significant addition to the city`s culinary scene, and all indications suggest that it will soon become a go-to destination for enthusiasts of Italian cuisine.
Info. Salaminos 64, Keramikos, reservations online
*Photos: Anna Tasioula
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