The search for grape varieties that can thrive in diverse terroirs is a continious challenge, often yielding modest results. However, Kydonitsa stands out as a rare example of adaptability, showcasing its ability to flourish in various locations beyond its native Laconia.
Originating from Laconia, Kydonitsa has begun to expand to other vineyards, with neighbouring Nemea being one of the first areas to welcome it. One of the producers who provided land (and a bit of water!) was Ktima Palyvos, who planted it in Diaselo, a predominantly sloping vineyard with complex clay soils.
With a desire to capture the essence of this unique terroir, the winemaker at Ktima Palyvos used his own yeasts and gave the wine a relatively brief barrel aging period of four months. The result is a wine that is not only visually stunning with its brilliant yellow-green hue, but also boasts a rich and expressive bouquet of apricot, pink grapefruit, and honeysuckle that unfolds beautifully in the glass.
The first aroma is the dominant one, leading some to risk a guess of Viognier in a blind tasting. However, the accentuated acidity and moderate body do not create similar tasting impressions. While this Kydonitsa lacks the wildness of some other varieties, it also doesn`t possess the full-bodied roundness found in others. Instead, it occupies a middle ground, even if the insufficient fruit—likely a result of youthful vines—leaves a dominant sense of aggression."
The Stolzle Exquisit White 42cl and an ideal serving temperature of 10-12ºC, offers the best possible balance and expressiveness. Paired with cheese croquettes, stuffed courgettes, fresh trout, roast chicken, and a cheese platter, it creates a harmonious dining experience.
Palyvos Estate`s offering from this dynamic variety requires a bit more time and effort to develop a flavour profile that matches its aromatic potential. Currently, the price of 21€ seems somewhat modest, but as we know, in Greece one cannot afford to delay; wines with similar aspirations typically start at 10-12€. However, even now, oenophiles eager to explore this much-discussed grape will find in this label a remarkable representative.
Rating: 7,5/10
Kydonitsa Palyvou is available from House of Wine
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