Santorini has evolved into one of the most sought-after vineyards in the world, with many producers eager to dip their hand into this volcanic "honey". However, few wineries on the island can proudly claim a long-standing history, and the ancient Argyros Estate holds a unique position among them. This is not only due to his sensational wines but also to the unimaginable extent of its owned vineyards, which span up to 1.200 acres.
Of course, Assyrtiko and white wines take the spotlight here, but the iconic producer was among the first to invest in the red varietal Mavrotragano, even crafting a single-vineyard cuvée bearing its name. The raw material for this wine comes from the Episkopi region, where the vines having the "young" age—by the estate`s standards—of just 40 years!
The 2020 harvest has undergone the classic 18-month barrel aging typical for this label, which has left a subtle terracotta impression on the deep ruby colour.
The wine`s bouquet is not only dense but also explosive, a characteristic attributed to its pronounced volatile acidity. While enthusiasts of oenological purity may find this acidity slightly excessive, I personally appreciate how it elevates the aromas of raisin, sweet cherry, nettle, and lily.
The aromatic presence is undoubtedly bold, yet the palate remains surprisingly light, despite the generous 15% alcohol content! The initial impression is sweet and alcoholic, reminiscent of a Cru from the Southern Rhône, but the follow-through is distinctly wild, as the finish is loaded with ample acidity and tannins. The latter may not evoke the old-school character of Naoussa, their astringency and moderate flavour intensity are not the standout qualities of this red wine.
Even though the Stolzle Quatrophil Burgundy glass and a serving temperature of 14-16ºC help achieve a certain tasting serenity, rich medium-rare cuts, thick lamb chops, and grilled mutton are essential for a harmonious pairing. However, if you can handle the tannins, stuffed tomatoes also make for a great accompaniment!
At 40€, the price is certainly not excessive considering the rarity of Mavrotragano and the surreal pricing landscape that prevails on the island. Quality-wise, this varietal once again proves that it is quite wilful, varying significantly from year to year, with its style ranging from Pinot Noir to Amarone! The 2020 in question leans more towards the latter, so fans who are willing to give it an hour of aeration should make their move quickly!
Score: 8/10.
The Argyros Mavrotragano Estate is available from House of Wine
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