Sheep or wine? The answer seems straightforward: sheep with wine! However, for Dave Clouston, the dilemma was more complex as he had to choose between continuing the family tradition of sheep farming and getting into wine.
To the delight of wine lovers everywhere, the charismatic winemaker chose the wine route, initially working in several major wine regions across the globe.
After 7 years of filling up the batteries of experience at wineries in the USA, Chile, Spain, France, and Corsica, David returned to his native Marlborough and 2004 started his venture. He even moved from the valley around the River Awarete, where he had been living, to a similar one in Wairau, based in a beautiful black farmhouse.
The above has already explained the names Black Cottage and Two Rivers he chose for his two brands. The former offers a range of more silky wines, and the latter takes a more complex approach to winemaking.
The two rivers, however, are not only the inspiration for the name but also the source of the raw material. The New Zealand winemaker takes advantage of the early maturation afforded by the more northern and warmer Wairau, the coolness of the more southerly (and therefore more excellent) Awatere and the particular conditions of some of the regions in between to give balance and complexity to his wines. Not only does he succeed wonderfully, but he also offers a high standard - the common denominator of his collections - at excellent prices.
Of course, any self-respecting producer on the island could not but have an excellent Sauvignon Blanc. The Black Cottage Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (8/10) is at least one such, combining the expressiveness of gooseberry, green pepper and lychee with dry balance and intense flavour. It is stylistically reminiscent of Cloudy Bay in a slightly more playful way, with a slightly tannic finish that requires 1-2 years of ageing.
The country is not renowned for its rosé wines, but Dave Clouston`s stint in Corsica and the south of France has given him the knowledge necessary to produce one of its top representatives. The first contact of Black Cottage Rose 2023 (8/10) with my nose made me exclaim "Alsace" as its intense aroma brought memories of jasmine, honey and tropical fruit reminiscent of whites from the famed region of NE France. And I wasn`t particularly wrong, as this wonderfully sweet and sour rosé gets a generous dose of the Pinot Gris variety alongside the Pinot Noir and Syrah.
All the wines in the tasting are reminiscent of something, and the Two Rivers "Clos des Pierres" Chardonnay 2021 ( 9/10) is reminiscent of a first-rate Burgundy. But its fantastic price (around 28€) is under ten times that of a Burgundy of this level! Coming from The Spring Vineyard with its stony soils - to which it owes its name - this excellent Chardonnay is aged 8 months in large barrels. Explosive and dense in its aromas of tobacco, tarragon, salt and lemon, it bases its extraordinary length on the nearly 30-year age of the climates from which it comes. Add the great acidity here, and you will face an exciting white with 10-year potential.
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