Verdea is, together with Retsina, the only wine entitled to the title "Designation by Tradition." However, unlike the latter, Verdea does not result from the addition of resin but—as its name suggests—from the vinification of unripe, green grapes.
This historic category had almost disappeared from production for many years, but the revival of winemaking activity in Zakynthos has brought it back to the forefront. The Grampsas family winery is in the vanguard of this comeback by relying only on local varieties, so adding its version of Verdea to its collection was a matter of time. Traditionally, this wine came from a blend of several (white) varieties and was made in barrel, with the producer from Lagopodo respecting all of the above by choosing Gustolidi, Skiadopoulos, Pavlos and Robola for the blend as well as a 6-month stay in French oak.
Despite this "care," the wine has not lost any of its freshness, which is due to the green hues that adorn its pale yellow dress. The aroma of unripe fruit is also fresh, even if the barrel complexity brings notes of vanilla, mastic, and even chestnut to the nose.
The mouthfeel of the Verdea is stylistically closer to a white Burgundy, with the relatively rich body supported by surprising acidity and some tannins. Elements that add structure and power, combined with the perfect length, ensure that the wine - now moving at ...idle - will "finish" in 3-5 years.
The Riedel Performance Chardonnay and 11-13ºC help release the barrel and enhance the fruit on the palate, presenting an ensemble whose finesse will compensate for fatty grilled fish, pedigree poultry (such as quail or guinea fowl), or lemon chicken for those reader friends who complain about the pairings` "expensiveness!"
Verdea may not carry a "literal" shame, but it has its own rural barrel winemaking taint. But by analogy, wines like the incredible Verdea Gramssa restore the honour of this historic Zakynthian wine and give it a quality profile as modern as the 21st-century demands!
Score: 8.5/10.
The Verdea from Klima Grampsa is available from House of Wine
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