Fortunately, the writings attest that I was one of the first to recognise the potential of Vidianos` potential in the mid-`00s. Of course, my love for the exuberant, yellow-fruited variety has not diminished. Still, I believe that Crete`s unique vineyard has other gems of similar value, even if they have not yet undergone the processing and polishing of Vidianos.
Thrapsathiri is not only one of these but also has a character similar to that of the great white diva. Indeed, it takes the virtues of the Vidian a step further by being more tropical, stout, sweet and sour.
The name of the variety suggests a more productive Athiri, which is not a good thing as the variety that flourished in the 1980s has yet to prove itself capable of much. Fortunately, Thrapsathiri is an infinitely better grape that has nothing to do with the classic grape of the Rhodes vineyard. I will not be the one to question its fertility and propensity for high yields, but I assure you that Thrapsathiri is capable of excellent performance in the right hands.
Such are those of Manolis and Eleftheria Amargiotakis, who, based in Dafnes Heraklion, not only continue the family tradition but have given it an impressive dynamic. The range—mainly based on Cretan varieties—may have grown, but the winery first became known for its Thrapsathiri. This barrel-fermented single-vineyard label comes from the privately owned semi-mountainous (350m) 80-acre vineyard.
The critics` column presented the maiden vintage of 2019 (6/10) as demanding in serving, mediocre in performance, and promising in outlook, so it was with particular interest that I brought the following four vintages to my glass. It was a mini vertical that (thankfully) never again pitted me against the first two while doing justice to the third.
The dance was led by the Thrapsatheri 2023 (8/10), which, unlike its older sibling, presented itself as a perfectly sound wine but was too young, a fact underlined by its bright green hues. The nose is shy but spotless, with unripe yellow fruit and pineapple aromas complemented by notes of angelica blossom and white asparagus. Despite being only 13 degrees, it has impressive volume and plenty of acidity that requires at least 3-5 years to digest. However, the same could not be said of the wood since, despite the small size of the barrels, which have lasted for 4 months, they are exemplary in presence, quantity, and quality.
The intense green highlights have barely receded, leaving the deep pale yellow colour to come into play in the case of 2022 (8/10). But the nose has also begun to open up more here, with the yellow fruit taking on a more mature dimension, assisted by the sweetness of the oak. All the virtues of the winemaker`s ...craftsmanship are also highlighted here on the palate, while the lovely acidity seems less cut off without reducing the requirement for at least another 3-5 years in the cellar.
Until then, however, the impressive Thrasher 2021 (8/10) will give you some mind-blowing moments! Its green highlights may not have receded, but the base is starting to become golden, and the aroma is beautiful and explosive. This is expressed in an Alsatian way, as its lychee, pineapple, and melon are more reminiscent of Gewurztraminer! The ripe pear adds to the flavour; the barrel is again absent, the wine has started to become "one", and the acidity prevents unpleasant surprises until 2028.
Although the 2020 (7/10) is already two steps above the 2019, it cannot stand up to the level of the other vintages in the tasting. The green highlights have indeed receded, and the buttery aroma joins that of yellow fruit, but it is not these but the relative lack of fruit that makes this vintage the weak link. As such, the 2020 may be both clean and still vibrant. However, the acidity is aggressive, while the finish is shorter.
`Having had the opportunity to taste several times over the last 3 years the work of Amariotakis winery, I can only conclude that year after year it raises the quality bar of all its wines, a view that this vertical no doubt comes to reinforce.
But as a Thrapsathiri aficionado, I have another reason to be happy (and justified), as the Daphne winery`s proposal proves the potential of the variety, its ability to age and the distinctive character it can unfold when cultivated and vinified properly.
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