The venture of George and Anne Kokotou began in the 1970s in the then-desolate and isolated Stamata, initially regarded as a considerable risk. However, their winery quickly emerged as one of the country`s first boutique wineries, placing Attica on the wine map and offering enthusiasts the ultimate cult wine of the era: the renowed red Chateau Semeli.
Initially, Cabernet Sauvignon and later Merlot serves as the foundation for this exceptional wine masterpiece, now recognised as Ktima Kokotou. With years of expertise, the winery has undoubtedly mastered the intricacies of both varietals. It is no surprise, then, that these grapes were chosen—at a ratio of 30/70—for the rosé in their collection, aptly named Kleftra Kissa. This elegant rosé is crafted from grapes sourced from a semi-mountainous vineyard at an elevation of 450 meters, characterised by its sandy-clay terroir.
This cuvée, exclusively vinified in a tank, showcases a delicate rosé colour adorned with plenty of copper highlights. Both varietals are not particularly celebrated for their aromatic intensity in rosé wine, and Kleftra Kissa aligns with this characteristic. As a result, it presents a lower intensity overall, with ripe aromas of butterscotch and coffee that complement the fresh notes of gooseberry.
The flavour impressions, however, tell a different story, as the wine is neither soft nor mature, but rather possesses a medium body marked by a prominent structure and strength. These characteristics are supported by excellent acidity, which contributes to a pleasant finish but is somewhat betrayed by a lack of intensity in the flavour profile.
Nonetheless, the Stolzle Quatrophil White, served at 10-12ºC, strives to bring forth freshness and fruitiness. While this rosé may not be overtly expressive, it is remarkably versatile at the table, pairing beautifully with dishes such as pastrima pies, pasta with tomato sauces, octopus with spaghetti, aged cured meats and hearty vegetable dishes.
Kleftra Kissa is a classic rosé representative of both Attica and the varieties used, though it has a notable Achilles` heel: its lack of flavour intensity. This weakness is compounded by its price point of 14€, which, while not excessive in absolute terms, places this rosé from Stamata amidst strong competition. One can only hope that Kissa didn`t draw on the most delicious grapes from the vineyard, but then again, this label of 5,500 bottles may not have had such an appealing name!
Rating: 7/10.
Ktima Kokotou Kleftra Kissa is available from House of Wine
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