In my view, the Paros Farming Community project is one of the most important initiatives in the history of Greek wine, having transformed the island’s cooperative into a first-rate producer in record time.
At the pinnacle of its flawless portfolio stood Cuvée Topos, a label that made me look at the island’s reds in a completely new light. What is remarkable is that it achieved this while showing absolute respect for the typicity of PDO Paros, crafted from a blend of the red Mandilaria with the white Monemvasia – the latter making up an extraordinary 55% of the cuvée.
The tannin wizard Dimitris Mansolas may have already delivered impressive complexity and velvet-smooth texture with what is arguably the finest red PDO in Paros’s history, but he didn’t stop there. Taking full advantage of the varietal scope permitted by this distinctive appellation, a few months ago he released Cuvée Premno, priced at €45 – a far bolder, more muscular wine made entirely from Mandilaria.
Premno makes its intentions clear from the outset, with a dense, deeply purple hue. Yet it’s the bouquet that strikes even more forcefully, bursting with extrovert aromas of wild sour cherry and black fruits.
Some might assume that I shy away from bold, full-bodied wines. In truth, I have no issue with power – only when it comes without substance. What I cannot stand are those overblown reds that rely on over-ripeness, aggressive tannins and weak flavour definition.
That is precisely what Premno is not. On the contrary, this strikingly full-bodied red delivers impressive length, freshness of flavour, no trace of alcoholic heat and a rugged character that never tips into harshness. Its tannins are textbook Mandilaria – firm and pronounced – yet beautifully cushioned by layers of fruit, suggesting it will evolve magnificently well into the next decade.
The variety may favour relatively smaller glasses, but the richness of this particular cuvée revealed itself in all its glory in a Riedel Vinum Bordeaux at 14–16°C. Pair it with medium-rare liver, well-seared fattier cuts, or slow-braised beef cheeks, and you have worthy companions for a truly memorable table.
Although I was tempted to press “9” when it came to scoring, I chose to hold back the accolade of “greatness” until Premno reaches its peak. Admirers of finesse and layered complexity may still cast their vote for Topos, yet Cuvée Premno stands as one of Greece’s most commanding blockbuster reds. PFC, chapeau!
Score: 8.5/10
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