Akti: A Restaurant Evolving on Every Level on the Athenian Riviera

Looking back at my first review of Akti, written in November 2021, I was reminded of a point I had made at the time about the music. I wrote: “If I had one criticism, it would be a certain lack of cohesion in the music selection, as Akti chooses to operate within a fun dining context. On one level, I understand it. This is Greece, after all, and we do enjoy a bit of celebration. I have no issue with party restaurants. But if you are going to do it, it should be handled with a bit more balance.” 
 
In truth, over the past year or so, the restaurant has changed direction entirely. In its early days, as the mood lifted, the evening could easily tip into a more exuberant, distinctly Greek style of celebration. You will not hear classical music at Akti, nor was that ever the intention. What has changed, however, is the sense of control. Today, the music feels far more considered, with coherence and restraint, and nothing of the excess that once defined the atmosphere. The volume, too, is now much better calibrated to the style and character of the restaurant.

This is not necessarily the kind of place one chooses for a formal business meeting, although I would personally have no hesitation in doing so. You come to Akti to enjoy yourself, to eat genuinely excellent seafood, and to experience the pleasure of dining in one of the most beautiful settings on the Athenian Riviera.

If there is one clear reason for my return to Akti, it is the food and, more specifically, the evident progress of the kitchen compared to my initial review. The overall direction is overseen by Panagiotis Giakalis, a chef with a strong presence in contemporary Greek gastronomy, widely recognised at the FNL Best Restaurant Awards and holding a Michelin star for Patio. At the heart of the kitchen on a daily basis, however, is Andreas Giannopoulos, who brings to Akti a sense of care, generosity and genuine culinary curiosity. The menu today feels more refined, more mature and more purposeful, with better balance, greater clarity of flavour and a clear sense that the kitchen now knows exactly what it wants to express and how to express it. And when you are working with ingredients of this calibre, everything becomes that much clearer.

In the raw section, Akti truly excels, even if the approach leans towards a more generous, expressive style. This is down to the quality of the ingredients, the strength of the ideas and a kitchen that knows how to build intensity and flavour without compromising the clarity of the produce. The seafood platter is a standout, drawing on the idea of a shrimp cocktail and taking it in a more cosmopolitan direction, with lobster, langoustines and prawns, alongside a prawn-based Thousand Island sauce enriched with sea urchin. It delivers depth, intensity and a certain old-school sense of luxury, reinterpreted in a contemporary way. The clams were impeccably fresh, the amberjack sashimi with herbs and olive oil from Margi Farm showed fine delicacy, while the grouper carpaccio with sea urchin had a vibrant citrus freshness and a distinctly marine character. The red porgy ceviche with tomato water, samphire and shallot was balanced and refined. Particularly interesting was the tuna carpaccio, where aromatic olive oil, sautéed onion, pepper and capers come together almost like a vegetable XO-style dressing, giving the dish a savoury, layered and deeply satisfying profile.

The octopus, served with a Florina pepper pesto, is a must. Above all, because it has real texture, character and bite, nothing like the lifeless, overcooked, almost collapsing versions so often found in traditional fish tavernas.

Do make a point of trying the sardines with grated tomato and sourdough bread, as well as the cured bonito with house pickles, to fully understand what I mean when I say that Andreas Giannopoulos cooks with genuine care and instinct.

The crayfish tail was flavourful, although on my visit the crust lacked the crispness it should have had and retained a little oil. By contrast, the steamed mussels were thoroughly enjoyable, with good intensity and precise execution, while the meal closed with a red pasta with slipper lobster that was, quite simply, outstanding.

Desserts are overseen by Manolis Stithos, a highly skilled pastry chef with a strong grounding in the classical repertoire, who is equally comfortable exploring more contemporary ideas. This is a section of the menu well worth your attention. The baklava is visually striking, technically accomplished and very well executed, although for my taste it becomes a little too rich as a final course. I would always opt for the portokalopita (orange pie), which has greater vibrancy, better balance and feels far more suited to closing a meal of this kind.

All things considered, and in comparison to the 7 I awarded in my initial review, I would now rate Akti at 7.5. It is a score that carries even more weight when one considers the sheer volume of covers the restaurant handles. To consolidate its position at this level, however, it will require discipline, consistency and real stamina. Akti now appears to have built far stronger foundations to sustain this standard.