Silva, Liatiko Grande Reserve 2020

January 12, 2025
Simos Georgopoulos
The unique character of Liatiko fascinates more and more wine lovers and this acclaim is leading to more premium attempts. RATING: 7.5 / 10.
  • SILVA, LIATIKO GRANDE RESERVE 2020 | Wine Reviews

Liatiko may be the most widely planted variety of Crete, but it was discredited in the eyes of ordinary wine lovers and the producers themselves for decades! Of course, the latter often used it to produce world-class, sweet, smooth wines. Still, due to its exceptionally light colour and dried aroma, they feared dry vinifications, particularly when fruit-packed "blockbuster" wines were all the rage.

But the shift in global taste to delicate wines with a unique character and the articles of many wine critics brought Liatiko to the tip of the red spear of Cretan wine, with increasingly ambitious attempts to intrigue with their releases.

One of the most recent is that of Irini Daskalaki, which comes from the nearly 50-year-old family vineyard of Atsinatos in Dafnes. The Grande Reserve designation serves the staff`s PDO and the prolonged -4 years of ageing in old (large) barrels and bottles.

After all, for those familiar with the variety, the almost pinkish colour with its intensely brown hues is not surprising. Neither is the sophisticated bouquet that includes coffee, spices, dried leaves, and warmth from the alcohol, even if one wishes for more length and concentration.

This is where the impressive 15.5-point mouthfeel and the power with which it envelops its delicate presence compensate for it. The initial sweetness leads to a balanced flavorful climax due to the few in quantity but intense tannins.

While the Pinot Noir colour will have many glasses of Burgundy pulling from their cabinets, this wine prefers big, closed tulips like the Riedel Vinum Syrah. Similar considerations apply to serving temperatures, where a cold 12-14oC is best, as the classic "red" temperatures lead the aroma to dissipate. However, care is needed with the pairings, as the dish should have some sweetness and ripeness. So go for a rabbit stew, a mushroom tart, or a Wellington fillet.

With this premium cuvee of only 4000 bottles, Silva Winery is further increasing the stock of PDO Dafnes and the Liatiko variety. The price of almost 60€ contributes to this even if it seems excessive, given that the nose does not stand at the level of the palate. It is, however, an excuse to bring this unique grape into the glasses of many snobbish wine lovers!

Grade: 7.5/10.

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