Katsarou Winery, Katsarou Estate Red 2020

Indeed, it has been 8 years since my first review in the FNL Guide, and as incredible as it may seem, the Katsarou Estate red has never appeared in this column! At least this iconic cuvée from the producer in Kraniá, which boasts nearly four decades of history, is featured in almost every best-of list.

This blend is the first fruit of the estate created by Dimitris and Stela Katsarou in the mountainous village of Olympus. The term “estate” is, of course, relative, as the 90 hectares from which the small collection originates are scattered across altitudes of 650-820 metres.

This fact alone explains the difficulty of the endeavour, compounded by the preference of all the wild animals in the area for the concentrated, flavourful ripe berries of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that make up this iconic cuvée.

This cuvée clearly presents a dense, deep purple colour and an equally "dark" aroma. Blackberries and currants emerge with moderate intensity, while the waiting in the glass allows notes of ink and roasted meat to complement the (still youthful) nose.

The freshness of Kraniá and the conditions of the vintage have prevented the 2020 from exceeding 13.5% alcohol. This, combined with its high acidity and robust tannins, tips the balance towards a sense of austerity. While the Bordeaux blend possesses a rich body and substantial structure, it shines brighter than ever in terms of tannin quality. This is the only Achilles` heel of this label, as even after two decades, the tannins of many past vintages have shown little sign of softening! In contrast, the wine being tasted promises—without losing any of its potential for dynamic aging—that it will attain a velvety dimension after 2040.

The impressive Riedel Double Overture takes advantage of the relatively low alcohol content, and paired with temperatures of 15-17°C, it brings the best "flesh" to the palate. Any fatty meat will feel fantastic alongside it, but a personal choice would be a lamb shank.

The Red Katsarou Estate once again demonstrates why it is one of the most iconic wines of the Greek vineyard. Fortunately for wine enthusiasts, it does not trade its cult status for exorbitant prices but is reasonably priced at €24. So, make some space in your cellar!

Rating: 8.5/10.

The Katsarou Estate Red is available from the House of Wine