The Zacharias family has associated its name with Moukhtar, as they were the ones who made this exceptional grape from Boeotia widely known. Therefore, it was certain that the producer from the Mouson Valley would attempt a more ambitious cuvée, beyond the incredible, classic Moukhtar. The Unicorn also comes from the slopes of Mount Helicon; however, the vines chosen for this wine are the oldest that the family planted in the vineyard nearly a century ago. These own-rooted vines are cup-trained and are situated on a gently sloping hillside, yielding just 1.1 kilos each.
This rare wine is produced only in exceptional years, and 2022 was one such year. No further proof is needed beyond a glance at its colour and a swirl of the glass, as the Unicorn is not only one of the most dense and deeply coloured wines I have ever tasted, but it also leaves a thick film on the glass that is so solid it could send Newton on holiday!
The nose is equally robust, with such a concentration that it almost inhibits the aromas of hibiscus, strawberry jam, ink, tar, and peach from being perceived. In contrast, the rich body and provocatively fleshy character of the wine are easily noticeable, yet they do not lead to a heavy, overripe sensation reminiscent of gym wines. This is because there is a distinctive, wonderful acidity in the variety that seems to emerge from the… abyssal darkness. Additionally, the oak and tannins are particularly refined; however, the youthfulness of the wine is hinted at by a slight bitterness on the finish, which will surely have disappeared in 2-3 years.
The relatively open Riedel Vinum Bordeaux glass and temperatures of 14-16°C maximise the wine`s complexity and minimise the sensation of alcohol, while the class of the Unicorn inevitably brings to mind the pigeons, venison, and Wellington rabbits of Spondi! However, returning to reality calls for beef stew or braised beef...
This rare wine is produced only in exceptional years, and 2022 was one such year. No further proof is needed beyond a glance at its colour and a swirl of the glass, as the Unicorn is not only one of the most dense and deeply coloured wines I have ever tasted, but it also leaves a thick film on the glass that is so solid it could send Newton on holiday!
The nose is equally robust, with such a concentration that it almost inhibits the aromas of hibiscus, strawberry jam, ink, tar, and peach from being perceived. In contrast, the rich body and provocatively fleshy character of the wine are easily noticeable, yet they do not lead to a heavy, overripe sensation reminiscent of gym wines. This is because there is a distinctive, wonderful acidity in the variety that seems to emerge from the… abyssal darkness. Additionally, the oak and tannins are particularly refined; however, the youthfulness of the wine is hinted at by a slight bitterness on the finish, which will surely have disappeared in 2-3 years.
The relatively open Riedel Vinum Bordeaux glass and temperatures of 14-16°C maximise the wine`s complexity and minimise the sensation of alcohol, while the class of the Unicorn inevitably brings to mind the pigeons, venison, and Wellington rabbits of Spondi! However, returning to reality calls for beef stew or braised beef...
The Unicorn possesses almost astonishing structural elements that, however, combine with freshness and elegance into a world-class ensemble that justifies its price of €60. There is, however, one downside to this exceptional wine: anyone enjoying it should wash their glass immediately if they want it to remain as sparkling as it was before welcoming the rare unicorn!
Rating: 9/10
The Mouson Estate Unicorn Moukhtar is available from the House of Wine.
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