Taverna ton Filon: A Case Study Tavern in Kolonos

George Kontorizos shared with me that the first license for the Taverna ton Filon was issued in 1958. The tavern thrived for several years, gaining a reputation in Kolonos primarily for its grilled dishes, notably its ribs. However, over the past decade—possibly longer—it fell into decline and eventually closed its doors. George, who previously worked as a sommelier at Spondi and later at Veritable, teamed up with Yannis Mousios, whom we met culinary-wise in the Seychelles. Together, they were looking for an opportunity away from the city centre. One day, they stumbled upon this establishment, and the rest is history.

They kept the name and began making aesthetic improvements to the space, altering various elements while ensuring these changes remained subtle. It`s as if they focused on the essentials while adding just a touch more. From the descriptions and glimpses of old photographs, it seems they took a paintbrush to revive an image that had faded with time. This is called respect and also sharp thinking—because in an era where most new restaurants look alike, nostalgia, even when polished, has a certain charm that softens us and works therapeutically. The canvas depicting a shepherd on a barren land, positioned above the open kitchen, was part of the original setting and continues to enhance the atmosphere without overpowering it.

George Kontorizos has a great passion for wine and extensive knowledge, which he utilised to create an intriguing wine list for Taverna ton Filon. This list features wines from Greek vineyards ranging from €20 to €46 and is frequently updated. Impressively, all forty-plus wine labels are available by the glass. You`ll rarely see a table without a bottle of wine, which is understandable considering these prices. The menu offers around twenty dishes, starting at €7 and going up to €24 for fresh squid, although most main courses are under €15. I found the prices reasonable, considering the quality and careful preparation of the ingredients. For a complete meal with a bottle of wine priced under €30, expect to spend around €50 per person. Considering that you can`t go below 30 euros in a below-average tavern serving lesser quality wines, the Taverna ton Filon, which ranks in the top five best tavernas in Athens, offers excellent value for money. 

But what truly captivated me was how Taverna ton Filon`s food brought tradition to the table of 2024. It`s a journey that honours the legacy of Greek cuisine, its incredible flavours, and the hearty cooking that wraps us in a comforting cocoon every time we taste it. Traditional cuisine may have a consistent structure, but it never stagnates. It`s updated without losing its classic ingredients. Taverna ton Filon is a classic tavern that has been reborn today, adapting to the demands of a modern consumer. Even if a dish like fava bean is presented more elegantly on a plate, it still retains its essence, preserving the memories of a family home. 

I tried several dishes that won me over when I went the other day: their tirokafteri worked in a mercurial way, and the peppers on top were on fire. The baked potato wedges have a honeyed roast and are the best I`ve ever had in Athens. Their kakavia came out a click thicker and marginally pinched in the salt, but it, too, was beautiful in the end. The Zarkadian saganaki came out of the pan golden, but they`ll have to find a spicier cheese to go better with the pumpkin jam. The pork sausage comes from Trikala, has a roasted crust, and is juicy. The excellent and subtly complex mustard pairs beautifully with it. The grilled burgers, with sheep`s yoghurt and caper paste, enhanced the dish`s moisture and the rooster ribs, though served with green beans which were drier that anticipated, were quite enjoyable. In the end, the poached pear in a red wine sauce complemented by a delicate cream closed the curtain nicely on a Greek taverna that is moving at a high level and seems to be growing - and will grow - nicely.