Mavro Provato: value for money with simple but not ordinary dishes

Stepping into `Mavro Provato` is like entering a bustling urban oasis. The restaurant is nestled in the lively neighbourhood of Pagrati, where finding a parking spot can be a challenge. The outside tables, almost hanging off the sidewalk, create a unique dining experience. The constant flow of pedestrians and the proximity to parked cars add to the restaurant`s urban charm.

But these have been a good influence on its commercial success. The restaurant, with about 60 tables, does over 200 covers a day, and booking is often tricky. In addition to the sidewalk tables, the restaurant has two indoor saloons: the main one with the bar and the auxiliary one located a few meters away and next to the enclosed kitchen area. Both are painted in black, with light brown on the chairs and the oilcloths that line the tables from end to end, contrasting and without any particular decoration.

What has made the "Black Sheep" an attraction for 12 years now for Pagratians, tourists, actors and singers, students and the elderly is its approach: Chef Socrates Sitaridis` dishes are unpretentious, generous, created with Greek raw materials (not even close to yuzu and soy) and the recipes that remain simple but not ordinary. A few variations on the classic give a pleasant feel without straying from the roots of traditional Greek (and, in some cases, Oriental) cuisine. Service is another strong point, as it is incredibly prompt, while the bill at the end is always pleasantly surprising, confirming the value-for-money philosophy. Generally, the flavours are familiar and have a more creative touch, but they are not so successful in some cases, such as the salads. But there are so many choices, whether meat or fish, that the menu satisfies every preference.

One of the dishes that I particularly appreciate is the steamed mussels, washed down with white wine and plenty of garlic that bursts strongly on the nose as soon as the dish arrives at the table. Marinated anchovies and potato salad with smoked chiro, lemon, mustard and finely chopped green and red peppers are the strongest appetizers for ouzo or tsipouro. Of the meats, the hunkiar beyedi with braised beef and smoked eggplant puree is the ultimate main course, even if it is on the list of tidbits. I singled out the Caesar pies with pastrami, cheese, and tomato, which are perfectly fried and at the right temperature. The two mushroom dishes need much extra love to improve their flavour. Also, in the meat dishes, there is only sometimes consistency in the cooking, so some come out a little dry. In any case, on the menu, which I remember for many years (fortunately, several daily specials come out), there are dishes that one can get stuck with, but also the less good ones, with their excesses or shortcomings. As for the wine cellar, there are several choices of bottled and bulk wine, which is highly prized by diners.

Info: 33 Arrianou 33 Pagrati, open Monday through Saturday 1:00 pm—0:00 am, Sunday 1:00 pm—7:00 pm, tel: 2107223466, prices from 15-30 euros per person.