RawBata: The definition of gastronomy with the stamp of Chronis Damalas

If someone were to ask me to describe Chronis Damalas in one word, it would be "star". Wherever he went over the years, everything he did was stamped with a culinary stamp of his own, which may have been shaped by the thunderous influences he received from Japanese fusion, but as time went on, it increasingly reflected the talent of this great, in my opinion, and unpretentious cook. He started his journey at Nobu in New York over twenty years ago and he served at restaurants that were milestones for contemporary pan-Asian cuisine in Greece: Sea You Up, Kiku, Gaspar, Ovac at Cavo Tagoo, Cash, Izakaya, and I`m certainly remembering some. Then, he is one of the most well-traveled chefs: he has scoured many stellar restaurants around the globe, storing serious material on his hard drive. After a stellar run at Cavo Tagoo, he`s put a semicolon on it. He married Fotini Markoutsa, now his other half at the restaurant, took his breaths, and saw many things from that sharp distance that allows you to realize that if you want to be a virtuoso, you must serve your aesthetics first and then your art.

RawBata presented itself before him almost out of nowhere. He saw the ad, and without much thought, he closed the shop, starting to create with Fotini. This model eventually led them to a Greek gastrotaverna with fusion embroidery, which would incorporate all those carefree memories of the barbecues of another era. We`re in Abelokipi, but in the quiet Laconia square, there`s a different breeze blowing, one of those nostalgic ones that startle you beautifully. Immediately, the internal switch turns to discharge, and something tells you everything will be fine. The décor of the place lends itself to this warmth: on one side is the vast open kitchen with the neon "me and my fusion" sign catching the eye, and on the other is the lounge with its perimeter glass windows and simple table seating. They`re also setting up tables in the square across the street, which I imagine will be a hit by mid-September. Now, with labels from the Greek vineyard, the wine list is well done, and the prices are very reasonable. That`s what Chronis insists on: "I didn`t want to make an expensive restaurant for the few; I`m interested in other people coming without thinking about prices. That`s why we have paid much attention to pricing in the menu." Indeed, that`s how it is.

The restaurant`s menu changes almost daily since the dishes are based solely on ingredients found on the market. Damalas shops at his farmer`s market, which he holds like a holy grail, one thing, and I won`t hide from you that I think that`s great. But what else makes Raw Bata so unique? All those elements that make a taverna gastronomic: excellent ingredients that follow seasonality, clever combinations, exemplary cooking and a little (for now) jap fusion "madness"...that can gourmet the food a click, without overloading it with unnecessary elements and turning it in a more different and ambitious direction. George Alos is the head chef of the brigade. We started with a crusty multigrain bread covered with hearts and zests of red musky tomato, perfumed with wild oregano. Amidst the flavours came a fantastic aubergine salad with a "fork-tender" velvety texture and sweet-eating roasted vegetables on top. Raw remains a strong card for Chronis Damalas: in his ceviche, fresh mullet is cut into thick cubes and perfectly paired with slime, xylangus, mint and spring onion, while every bite of the sashimi-cut palamida is equally delectable, served with refreshing cucumber, mint, chilli and ponzu. 

Moving on from the raw...to the robata, I found the roasting of the snapper to be perfect and even better the excellent dumplings on the side, the chicken nuggets were also very well done and delicious, but the sheep burgers were overcooked, losing that untamed deliciousness that they would have had if they were more succulent. In the end, however, he got his revenge with a honeyed rooster that melted in the mouth: he cooked it alongside al denote pasta braids, courgettes and florets. A solid finish, since Raw Bata currently has no sweets, only watermelon. From September, they`ll be added to the menu as well. You will love this restaurant, remember that.