Botrini`s: a great restaurant reaching new heights

About three years ago, I wrote about Botrini` s Athens that "now we eat better here than ever". I will repeat that statement today for a straightforward reason: Ettore Botrini `s restaurant in Chalandri has not only not stopped evolving at all levels since then, but in various ways and with admirable methodicalness, it supports fine dining as what it should be: A holistic experience for the guest that is not only limited to authentic, original and highly creative flavours or only to a truly exceptional wine list that now exceeds 1300 labels or even to a service that is hard to find in a restaurant of similar class in Athens. All this is condensed in a choreographed gastronomic performance but also has the spontaneity needed to make you feel comfortable that mobilizes your brain cells, tells you stories, excites you, and stimulates your nostalgia neurons. Yet the connective tissue always remains the pleasure ultimately given only by the overwhelming sensation of deliciousness.

If you look at their revamped websiteyou will see that Botrini`s now serves two tasting menus: the shorter but satisfying "Walk" at €105 and the longer "Journey" at €145. On both menus - perhaps more easily on the shorter one - you can add for an extra €25 charge the excellent all-time classic pappardelle with duck, Peruvian cocoa and truffle. Next to one of the many fine red wines on the list - they serve most of them by the glass - this dish, although more straightforward than the others, is a loss! As Ettore Botrini and Nikos Bilis unfold their "narratives" at the table, almost before each stage comes a card describing the inspiration behind each composition or a comprehensive and incredibly well-written story linked to the flavours. I love that they subtly leave them without pressing you to read them. Give them a look, and skip them if you wish. Personally, however, I would advise you not to ignore them, although, in the end, they will give them all to you in a beautiful booklet with an excellent milk pie that is still...alive the following day. 

Coming now to the food, a general observation is that over time Botrini`s is getting closer and closer to the legendary Etrusco in Corfu, which is perfectly logical - though not easy - since the chefs are the same and the philosophy, the aesthetics they serve remain common. However, we are talking about two different - so to speak - terroirs: an Ionian one, Corfu, which, apart from being Ettore`s homeland, is also the starting point where he started his fascinating career, and an urban one, Athens, where you inevitably adapt your gastronomy to a different mould. However, even in this metropolitan landscape, the duo of Hector Botrini and Nikos Billys do a very - excellent job. Of the welcomes, the wild mushroom macaron has an airy texture and a delicate aftertaste; the eel fava bean stands out for its creaminess. At the same time, in the latest version of the Parian anchovy, the stage with the bite of bread that invites you for a mini dip in its juices is a Meraclidean moment, given unexpectedly in an artful style. On the menus, classic Botrini family specialities coexist with more recent creations, such as the velvety-textured herring ice cream accompanied by wild herbs and corn flavours: a complex masterclass with different techniques, temperatures and flavours working in tandem.

Among the very successful dishes I include the Corfiot "carbonara" in a daring surf-n-turf creamy combination of Corfiot lily and swordfish belly, the pumpkin tart with cariki sauce, but also the masterpiece red raw prawns with Trikalino egg tartare, and a cold sauce of last summer`s preserved tomatoes, Aegina peanut and strawberry vinegar. It is OK to bore you further with additional descriptions; the standard of Botrini`s in general and more specific terms is very high. As the restaurant is in this impressive race, dishes like the otherwise delectable lamb with eggplant and fig miso pull on the handbrake at the climax. Here, a higher class of poultry or cut of beef is a more gastronomic approach. In the desserts, the performance goes up again, with the peaches from last summer being transformed into an alien Bellini and the well-engineered, amazing Spiced Honey closing the eye on the gingerbread.