Gorlomi: Walking in its most coherent and mature phase

Gorlomi opened in October 2023 in Kolonaki and was one of the most successful openings of last season. The reasons that contributed to this big hit were—and still are—many: Italian cuisine held its popularity very high over time, Luca Piscazzi, who curates the menu, is Italian but also one of the top chefs currently active in Greece, and such a classy, beautiful restaurant with courtly luxury and warmth that bustles with life while serving top-level flavours was missing from Kolonaki.

Although I`ve been to Gorlomi several times and its indoor dining room is more to my liking, I always sit outside in its dark and dramatic courtyard: the lighting is too low, but for some strange reason, it doesn`t hit me badly. The wait staff move around the space quickly, are willing to make excellent handouts when serving the dishes, keep an eye on the wine so the glasses don`t have time to empty, and have style and lovely energy. Gorlomi exudes a posh aura, but the fact that it doesn`t fall into the trap of elitism makes it even more warm and welcoming. The wine list, signed by George Karamanolis, opens a big door as it is only natural to the Italian vineyard and has a good thirty or so Super Tuscans for those who want to do an extravaganza. Otherwise, you`ll find renowned houses from France, several Greek wineries, and a handful of American selections on its pages. On the plus side, the wine list and pricing are within reason.

The first review of Gorlomi was published a few days after the restaurant opened, and I have to admit that until last April, the cuisine, among several delicious dishes, had some weaker moments - mostly in terms of technique rather than conceptualization. During my previous two visits, I found that this has been rectified to an impressive degree. The flavours of Luca Piscazzi - executed by head chef Sotiris Giannopoulos- entirely echo the culinary extroversion, spontaneity and comfort character of Italian cuisine. Still, they also have a refinement, i.e. some more delicate nuances that make them more glamorous.

Their focaccia, which they always serve at the beginning, is crispy, juicy, fragrant, and the mortadella accompanying it is of excellent quality. In the carpaccio of finely chopped artichokes, the acidity from the lemon dressing is quietly "quenched" by the puffs of aged Parmesan. At the same time, Piscazzi`s vitello tonatto at Gorlomi has a deep, established deliciousness and such weighted proportions in its elements that it`s hard to forget. This approach of combining dense flavours with finesse continues even in more decadent dishes like his exquisite arancino that he stuffs with beef, truffles and serves with velvety mashed potatoes or even the fantastic braised meatballs, which are tender, very tasty. The tomato sauce drizzles over them has a sweet acidity that suits them like a glove.

Their pasta, too, resonates with the restaurant`s overall excellent standard: the spaghetti with vongole and eggplant spaghetti has no complaints from me. However, the technically excellent saffron risotto should have been a little lighter not to overpower the delicately profiled sweet-eating crayfish. As for the cotoletta alla Milanese, which is now also served in individual portions, it has been significantly improved compared to the first few months, since its crust is buttery and crispy, and the meat is now thicker and therefore does not dry out quickly during cooking.

Finally, the desserts at Gorlomi are pretty enjoyable, but I think there is still a lot of room for improvement regarding their pastry. Gorlomi enters its second year not only having improved on almost all of its weaknesses but also has enriched the menu with new specialities that make it increasingly charming as a whole. And I think that the €70-100 with wine, which you will be asked to pay per person for a night out at such a trendy yet excellent restaurant in Kolonaki that is constantly improving, is a fair price to pay for the overall experience that will be returned to you.