FITA: In the Era of Dimitris Dimitriadis

I first tasted Dimitris Dimitriadis`s cooking in 2010 at Cibus in Aigli of Zappeion. At that time, he had made a dynamic start in modern Greek cuisine, and although he was more introverted than he is now, that exploration in modernising our culinary tradition was remarkable, bringing his name to the forefront. I still remember the handmade rooster sausage with mezzovone foam and beer jelly. He subsequently honed his culinary skills at Artisanal, where he stayed for ten years until the creators of FITA in Neos Kosmos, Fotis Fotinoglou and Thodoris Kassavetis entrusted him with the keys to the kitchen this year, giving him the freedom to cook whatever inspires him. However, he hasn`t rushed to make drastic changes to the restaurant`s identity, which still maintains its status as a gastro tavern while gradually leaning more towards contemporary creative cuisine.

Dimitris Dimitriadis`s menu at FITA follows the structure and the culinary direction established by  Kassavetes and Fotinoglou. However, it is gradually beginning to embrace a more concentrated flavour of Greek tradition, which the chef interprets with a creative eye, maintaining the warmth that envelops us every time we taste it. I anticipate that he will he will further make his mark on the dishes. 

The beetroot dish, featuring beetroot pickles, radishes, and a light garlic almond topping, was delicious. The same can be said for the grilled green beans—chaoulia—paired with a tomato pesto and Florina peppers that created a lovely contrast with the aged goat cheese. Additionally, the classic spaghetti with eggplant is a must-try if available, as it`s not always on the menu. The tagliatelle, stuffed with octopus and accompanied by a delicate fava bean sauce, was enjoyable, though the filling was a bit watery, and the octopus was off-colour. On the other hand, the imam dish was excellent. I tried all three desserts, and they stood out for their well-made almond paste which evokes a charm from times long past.