Oikonomou Tavern: The impressive evolution of a historic tavern

A lot of ink has been spilled about Oikonomou in Petralona over the past few years, and not without reason. From the great Alekos Fassianos, who was a frequent patron - you`ll see his works on the walls - and the intellectual Costis Papagiorgis, who used to eat there ritually every Thursday - there`s a corner untouched with all his books - to politicians, artists, diplomats, actors and countless customers who swore in his name, in twenty years the tavern`s reputation has taken off. It began in 1930 as a tavern, serving only a few stews from a rudimentary kitchenette in the back of Yannis Oikonomou`s house. The tavern was then called Zephyros, but in 1972, when it almost took its present form, his son Nikos put their last name on the marquee. The rest is known. "Oikonomou" passed into the hands of Kostas Diamantis in early 2000. He was hard at work, extremely hard-working, and a very good helmsman under challenging times, which is not self-evident. A year and a half ago, he made the brave decision to rest, and so the tavern passed into the hands of businessman Philip Tsagridis.

I looked at theirwebsite and found that "a new cycle opens, and everything changes without changing anything." This closes the brief historical review of the restaurant`s course and encapsulates what is happening here in its absolute essence. But how can everything change without changing anything? How easily is the "past" refreshed? Can Greek tradition become relevant? Although Greek traditional cuisine has unchanging elements that define and delimit its identity, in essence, it has never remained static, incorporating at its core characteristics that adapt and align it with the seasons, the places, the customs and the nutritional needs of societies. This allows it to remain the same while at the same time evolving in ways that are most often imperceptible.

I will take as an example the excellent sourdough bread at the tavern of Oikonomou. It is now sourced from Kora Bakery and is the best bread in a tavern. All the raw materials have been upgraded, from vegetables and legumes to cheeses, meats and poultry, sourced from small producers and selected farms. Stews have always been a strong point at Oikonomou`s, but now they are even more mellow, with more admirable oil and tastier than ever. In the kitchen for thirty years now Mrs Garoufalia Gikopouli, with her hands of gold and so to say, "old" cook, knows what happens in their pots even when the lid is closed. Try her eggplants or her top-notch fried meatballs, which are delicious. It`s the only concession that was made, so next to the marmite pans and skillets, another pan fit in the kitchen, just for the meatballs and the fried cheese. 

Now, the herb pie has its audience; but to be honest, it remains an Achilles heel on the menu. It`s likeable, though it lacks that aromatic bouquet in the filling that makes it taste explosive. Last time, the baked potatoes came out a little bland, too. On the other hand, they make a forkful of tirokafteri with a dense flavour and beautiful acidity that`s uplifting; the tzatziki is also excellent, and their rabbit stew are delicious, too. Even in the finale, I found the rhubarb and ice cream more than thoughtful. In the old days, Oikonomou`s served only bulk wine and had two or three bottles for a discerning customer. The change made in this regard is more than impressive. Vassilis Bakasis, who is Tsagridis` right-hand man, has created a list of mainly mild wines, exclusively with labels from the Greek vineyard, that are over a hundred in price...scandal. So Nature Roditis by Tetramythos while in a cellar it sells for around €13, at Oikonomou you can find it for just €20, the 2019 Aedani by Art Space is priced at €38, while on the shelf, it reaches €31 and from the highest floors, the 2018 Kaiafas by Apostolos Thymiopoulos which online plays around fifty, there we enjoy it for €75.

Oikonomou`s rapid evolution at all levels has not only not altered its identity and its faith in tradition. Still, it is a unique case that should be studied and applied as much as possible by other restaurants with similar profiles. Thus, only the "taverna" as a dining experience will make the significant relapse and renew its dynamics in the present while at the same time paving the way for the future of our cuisine, which deserves and must be kept alive in the heart of Greek culture.