Makris Athens: fine dining by the promising Petros Dimas

I heard about Makris` landing in Athens last summer from Chef Petros Dimas. We were at Domes White Coast, and as we were tasting the - by far more comfort food than that of Corfu and Elounda - but deeply delicious Makris in Milos, at some point, I blurted it out. Although these restaurants stood out at Domes of Elounda and Domes Miramare in Corfu with their gastronomic standard, bringing a fine dining concept to the capital is complex. In this respect, I considered their move quite bold, although both Dimas himself and the owner of Domes Resort, George Spanos, seemed more than determined to support it.

They found a bargain building on Astigos Street, where Ermou borders Thiseio, and transformed it with elegance, drawing minimalist lines in the decor and art de la table. Even the fragments of vases hanging on the ceiling blend beautifully with the ground floor hall. A small open bar where some dish setups are done sets the tone for the kitchen here to have some fascinating stories to tell. The neoclassical building extends over three floors: descending the stairs, another room emerges, where 2024 from Ancient Greece is "separated" by a glass floor, from which untouched finds from that era can be seen. As the weather clears, the terrace on the roof of the Makris, overlooking the Acropolis and the Observatory, will once again spread its heavy marble tables. I first tasted the restaurant`s menu a few days after opening it. It was late September, and since then, I walked through the door of Makris Athens again a few days ago, finding that Petros Dimas had made leaps and bounds in the kitchen, dramatically improving many of the - inevitable - failures of the first time while adding new dishes of a high standard to his proposal.

Makris Athens approaches fine dining holistically. That is, it does not exhaust the experience offered only in the creativity of Petros Dimas but extends it to all those points that complement the flavours of a restaurant that wants to be consistent in its gastronomic identity and the expectations it creates. The wine list at Makris already has over 400 labels; it is constantly being enriched, and the sommeliers` harmonies with the dishes are thoughtful and delightful. In addition, there is a water list and an excellent selection of olive oils, and even in the coffee section, where most restaurants fall short, there is a fantastic job here with premium blends roasted exclusively for the restaurant by the leading TAF company. Even the cocktails are good. And how could they not be when they are signed by the talented Christos Kluvatos from Line Athens. The range of glasses has the Riedel stamp, the ice they use sparkles, and the service moves with professionalism and great comfort in the lounge. I watched them as they complemented sauces on several dishes with perfect coordination. So, some fine work is being done in this area as well.

When it comes to food, the restaurant serves three tasting menus: the 7 or 9-stage "Genesis", the 11-stage "Utopia" and a nine-stage vegan menu, "Physis". Peter Dimas` gastronomy has many trump cards. Using very high-quality products, mostly from Greek producers, he dresses his modern cuisine with enviable localness, and even those few raw materials that come from outside are one of a kind. The chef`s privately owned farm in Ancient Corinth supplies him with a whole host of goodies. His vegetables come directly from where his family home is. This is where memory, the nostalgia of his childhood and the performances of his adolescence go into the equation, elements with which he embroidered his dishes here and there. Now and then, they also prepare a unique experience on the estate. But I will tell you more soon. On this recent visit, I found the chef`s technique visibly improved from the first time I ate at Makris, and as a result, a refined finesse is now underlined, which could have been improved at the beginning. Of the specials I tried, I stand out for the delicate and incredibly delicious mushroom and chestnut cappuccino with white truffle. Standing next to it is a brioche feuilletée filled with grilled valley prawns. Its crunch is quite good but needs to be more ethereal to perfect. On the other hand, the cod carpaccio with a San Michalis cheese cream infused with Mani`s squalene is a very balanced yet complex flagship dish at Makris.

Dimas likes to take risks. But he earns most of them, too. The top speciality is the blue lobster from Brittany: it came cooked to perfection, with a crunchy texture and delicate flavour, while both the tomato water with orange and a pumpkin puree flavoured with Asian spices work perfectly together, giving a solid dish. Kermes` Iberico pork will not be missed, as a beautiful quail has replaced it with a technically flawless sauce and wild deliciousness. Moving on to the desserts, you will taste the more playful side of Peter Dimas: from the pre-dessert to the main dessert and especially the mignardises, the finale holds many surprises. I found them decent, but they did not reach the level of the previous creations. They show improvement mainly in technique, and if they even come a step closer to the classical school, the curtain at Makris will fall with even more resounding applause. However, we are talking about a restaurant already well on its way, has clear potential and is therefore worth trying.