Napul`e: The Pinnacle Expression of Italian Tradition in Athens, Crafted by Francesco Granata

It`s a compelling case for the Napul`e restaurant. It started discreetly as a small shop in Vari, on Vasileos Konstantinou Street, in a somewhat isolated location. I still remember the surprise I felt during my firts visit in March 2020. Back then, no one was talking about Napul`e. I came home, sat at my desk, and wrote its first review for FNL, with the second following two and a half years later, reflecting its evolution. Something about this Italian restaurant moved me from the first bite, leading me to believe in it wholeheartedly. It was a distinctive flavour that carried the family`s saga from Naples intact in its very essence, arriving and taking root in Athens as an instinct, a feeling, and a determination.

Then, everything took its course, which was neither easy at the beginning nor paved with rose petals. In Athens, with dozens of Italian restaurants, was it easy for Napul`e to stand out? Certainly not. Did it succeed? Absolutely. In my second review, I wrote: "It could not have been otherwise, for the simple reason that here we enjoy the most authentic, and if you ask me, by far the most delicious Neapolitan cuisine in Athens. Other Italian places in the city do a fine job—there aren’t many, but a few exist. However, none can match Napul`e`s level of access to raw materials, which they source directly from top producers in Naples and the surrounding villages. They have chosen the more challenging path, and they walk it with unwavering consistency. This, of course, significantly impacts the flavours of the dishes." I wouldn`t change a single word. But shall we move on to today?

In the past four months, the kitchen of Napul`e has come entirely under the stewardship of Francesco Granata, following Maggie Tabakaki`s takeover of the Mercato at the Four Seasons within Asteras. The restaurant is now led by the Neapolitan pizzaiolo, who was ranked 68th in the Top 100 Best Pizza Chefs for 2024. His decision to align the flavours of Napul`e with the revered traditions of Neapolitan cuisine is thoroughly justified in my opinion. During this time, I visited twice, and one visit stood out as particularly exceptional. Granata`s commitment to authenticity, the sensational ingredients he imports from his homeland, and his masterful cooking techniques—where the beauty of tradition is prioritized—make Napul`e unrivalled in its category. The "pizza" chapter, in particular, is a highlight of the experience, as I have never had a better pizza in Athens. To take it a step further, this pizza can stand alongside—if not surpass—the finest pizzas in Italy. I had the opportunity to witness this firsthand during several trips to the neighbouring country in 2024, where I tried some of the most renowned pizzerias. Among the masterpieces are the Marinara and Fuoco pizzas, with San Marzano tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella from Caserta, mezzovone, Calabrian spicy salami, `nduja, and fragrant fresh basil. His carbonara, is equally impressive: it`s indescribably delicious, with the pasta cooked to perfect al dente, excellent guanciale, and a wonderful sauce that envelops the pasta with expressive density. This is by far the best carbonara in Athens. If you wish to delve deeper into the Neapolitan waters of tradition, I recommend the equally impressive candele with Genoese ragout. The Neapolitan meatballs, bathed in a subtly tangy tomato sauce, are pure comfort. The menu is extensive, encouraging repeat visits or dining with larger groups to fully experience everything it has to offer. I found a beautiful tension and acidity in Granata`s vitello tonnato, and even the Australian wagyu that came at the end was cooked exactly as requested, with an impressive depth and flavour.

We concluded our meal with a homey, light tiramisu served from the pan, evoking all the nostalgia of family dinners from the region. I`m not the only one who feels this way; my Italian friends couldn`t believe their taste buds as they indulged in it. Lastly, for those who love wine, at Napul`e you will find many gems from Italian vineyards, some of which aren`t even available in the wineries themselves.