Manari: A World of Vibrant Flavours and Impressive Performances Under the Signature of Aris Vezenes

I`ve visited Aris Vezene `s Manari twice since it opened—once shortly after its debut, when it hadn’t even been ten days old, and again now to write a review. I made several attempts to secure a table during prime dining hours but did not succeed, which underscores that the hype surrounding this restaurant remains strong almost five months after its premiere. Fortunately, their reservation system is quite accommodating, offering alternative dates and times, so, shortly after noon on a Monday, I found myself seated at the stainless steel indoor counter, right in front of their grill. The atmosphere in this room feels different: more bistronomic, more metropolitan, infused with a sense of mystery, particularly compared to its charming courtyard or the hall across the street, characterised by its rough plaster walls and yellow lights. Ioanna Tzendoumi has decorated the walls with vintage photographs, and it truly takes guts to put a candelabra, an incense burner, a tambourine, a mountain of tomatoes, and a framed picture of Antony Quinn from Zorba the Greek all in the same space without it looking funny. Beyond his restaurants, Aris Vesenes excels at creating atmospheres within his establishments, integrating elements from his travels around the world into a cohesive aesthetic that aligns with the identity of each concept. He is truly exceptional in this regard—what more can I say!

On my second visit, I found the food at Manari to be significantly improved compared to my first experience. I tried a variety of dishes—some of which they are considering adding to the menu, such as a delicious beef tartare and their gardubaki. However, I won`t include them in this review. You might ask, "Tartare on a grill? How does that fit in?" Titles always leave something out, but Manari is not just a grill. While it certainly embodies the essence of Greek barbecue in its DNA, it also draws inspiration from traditional tavernas and, at the same time, can evoke the aura of a bistro. The well-balanced nature of this "cohabitation" is evident in the results.

I found the cuisine to be performing exceptionally well in terms of flavours, with just a few minor details and no serious faults. In their tirokafteri, I appreciated not only the texture but also its delightfully spicy flavour. The fried zucchini and eggplant were thinly sliced, impeccably fried, and served with delicious sheep`s yoghurt to cool them down. The technique used for the roasted kidneys was noticeably improved, with the fat gradually achieving a beautiful caramelisation. In contrast, the simple pasta in a rich, flavourful meat broth was outstanding. While the pasta may not have been cooked to a perfect al dente, the decision to serve it in a more rustic style suited the dish perfectly. I ordered the liver medium rare and enjoyed it to the max. I also couldn`t resist the greens pie with the fantastic pastry; however, I expected more robust flavours in the filling and slightly less watery texture. From the stews, I chose the excellent meat soup, priced at €9.5. Overall, the prices at Manari are fantastic for the experience the restaurant offers, especially considering that nowadays, many below-average restaurants charge around €30. At Manari, you can eat and drink well for €50-60.

We finished our meal with a duet of lamb and mutton chops, which arrived juicy and cooked to perfection, with the fat achieving a delightful crispiness. However, if I had to choose between one, it would have to be the sheep, as it reminded me more of delicately aged beef. Be sure to leave some room—if you can—for the delicious caramelised brioche with Aegina pistachio praline and milk ice cream. Manari, while holding high the banner of its popularity, continues to grow and mature beautifully. It is a well-rounded restaurant that stays true to its promises, offering good value for its class and an energy that makes the atmosphere even more enchanting.  Judging by Aris Vezene`s other ventures, I am confident it will continue to evolve, with time working in its favour.