CTC: Alexandros Tsiotini`s restaurant gets better and better every time

Although he went through his passion at his old post when CTC moved to the Kerameikos neighbourhood three years ago, things have changed radically. Alexandros Tsiotinis had many aces to throw from his sleeve to make up for it. He played these cards and finally festively won the game, and as the crowning glory of the new era was dawning, the Michelin Guide star came and rewarded his cuisine, filling the restaurant with people ever since. Stavros Kontodimos of Interior Design Labaratorium did a meticulous job on both the interior and the spacious garden, creating an architectural duality: it`s so different from the courtyard`s atmosphere to that of the salon that you almost believe you`re in a different restaurant every time. However, there are connecting elements that bridge the two, with minimalism running through the CTC`s aesthetic, both in the decor and the flavours. For at least five months, however, the garden takes pride of place. We`re in Athens, where even in November, we`re fine eating outside, even with a buffet. I hadn`t returned to this beautiful courtyard until a few days ago when I returned to try the new menu.

The trip to the CTC has eleven stops (€105), and the route hides some lovely surprises from start to finish. Keeping Greek cuisine in the foreground, Alexandros Tsiotinis and head chef Christos Rigas recreate it with a cohesive creativity that exudes great confidence while continuing to move with great fluidity between finesse and deliciousness. Even in the most daring experimentation, you`d be hard-pressed to find fault, thanks to a genuinely well-balanced, high-level technique that underpins the dishes. Among the welcome additions, the lacy, octopus-shaped fava bean panacotta is dipped in octopus jelly and served with an excellent vinaigrette of grilled octopus. Fantastic. His version of ceviche is served with smoked sea bass, an emulsion of oysters and herbs, and an exotically beautiful kiwi granita, into which a sponge cake of Aegina peanut and nori seaweed is dipped as it melts: a dish that piques your interest with its complexity and refined tensions. I`ve previously written about the homage to Lefteris Lazaros` iconic squid pesto. I`d repeat the same thing: movingly delicious, endless umami, and if I were to add anything, I`d like an extra forkful of this dish.

Although I think the Kalarryti lamb is somewhat overrated in general for the hype it has generated, the impeccably roasted rack served by Tsiotini with various excellent eggplant textures, next to a luscious bread roll filled with crumbs from the braised neck, was one of the best I`ve tasted in a fine-dining restaurant. Moving on to the desserts, this was the first time I felt they approached the level of the savoury stages. 

The beetroot and red fruit sorbet figures high on the list of the best pre-desserts in a Greek restaurant, while both the strawberry and pistachio Aegina duet and the tart tatin are bursting with beautiful textures and expressiveness. CTC`s sommelier, Kanellos Triantafylopoulos, constantly improves the food and wine harmonies, contributing decisively to the restaurant`s evolution in this area. The service, orchestrated by restaurant manager Iva Dilo, stands at the height it deserves for a restaurant of this class. In conclusion, I would like to say that the €105 that one is asked to pay for the menu at CTC and its cuisine, in my eyes, makes it probably the most value-for-money gastronomic restaurant in Athens.