Papaïoannou Vouliagmeni (Kavouri): upscale fish eating by the sea

Papaioannou has always been a case in itself. From the time of the first restaurant on the outskirts of Faliro, until he stepped more openly into the walk by of Mikrolimano, his name became synonymous with top fish eating. And not without reason.

But his collaboration with Stasinopoulos Group took the story many steps further. The restaurant in Mikrolimano was renovated, two more shops were created, one in Kifissia - we have written a review - and one in Kavouri, where Mythos by Divani was located for years. I caught up with it in its good times, but also as it went through various ups and downs, a situation that made me sad and made me wonder, considering the location and the raw material it had at its disposal to manage. The move, therefore, to drop anchor for Papaioannou in this position was something of a royal checkmate.

The only reminder of the old scene was the one thing that can`t be changed: the sea. Otherwise, the new, subtly luxurious décor lit and warmed the interior, which once looked more like a ballroom, and as you step out onto the deck the minimalist tables, linen-covered, let nature do the talking. It remains aesthetically classy at Kavouri Papaioannou in winter, but once spring pops and the tables reach the dock, it`s a sight for sore eyes. All along the Riviera coastline, I struggle to find a seafood restaurant that combines delicious cuisine, atmosphere and a sea that practically wets your feet to this extent.

Coming to the level of flavours, this time, I don`t have much to add to what I have written. Here, the raw material speaks the language of freshness; it sparkles. But because the sea has its rules, there are days when the boats unload diamonds at Papaioannou, and other days when the fishing is more frugal. But you will always find something. And it will be good or better. The platter of raw - they can make you various combinations - shows the kitchen`s mastery of cutting the fish and bringing them. The classic Papaioannou salad, which is rarely missing from a table, always comes as "vibrant" with crisp and shockingly fresh vegetables. If you can find mullets, ask for them to be made in the pan. They are bursting with flavours and acceptable iodine. On past visits, I`ve found failures in the pasta, especially in the binding of the pasta with the broth, but the one I tried the other day came out flawless. Although I`ve been craving grilled fish from their hands, we closed again with the steamed motif: this speciality is unrepeatable. Moving on to desserts, the orange pie is still delectable, but now a new addition steals the show. It`s a milk souffle with fragile leaves, silky cream that is expressive without being a stomach bomb and a light, syrupy texture. It is served with a lovely ice cream.

The price for this experience starts at €100 per person if you`re careful, quickly reaching €150 with a couple of extra courses and a larger fish, and if you give it some thought, it climbs to €200. Is it cheap? By no means, but de facto, it can`t be. Is it expensive? And yes and no. It depends on the point of view from which one looks at it. Fish costs a lot as a raw material, and the operating costs of these shops are exorbitant. If you add the taste, the view, the service and so on into the equation, it`s worth the money. After all, you can` eat` in an average fish restaurant for 60 euros or more. It is not a restaurant that one will quickly go to frequently. But it is a reference point for classic Greek fish food that stands the test of time, evolves steadily without altering its identity. Despite the inevitable and minor failures, the cuisine is admirably good.