In Pispilounda, a mountainous village in Chios, "Yaboo" was where residents gathered for a pleasant break from the daily grind of life. Kostas Lagos also envisioned such a meeting place for the residents of Piraeus and the capital. Coming from the island of the northeastern Aegean and with his main professional activity in the shipping and IT sectors, he founded Yaboo on Kontyli Beach last October, "dressing" it up with earthy colours, teal velvet sofas, an open kitchen, a bronze bar, and huge windows that look out over the docked ships.
The flavours at Yaboo carry the signature and subtly creative touch of Georgianna Chiliadaki, who serves as culinary director with head chef Angelos Kotsyris. The menu designed by the influential chef artfully combines yesterday`s Greek and Mediterranean cuisine with that of today, while international culinary influences are also present. So, the hotdog`s sausage is rustic, and the delicious handmade dumplings have a spinach pie filling.
To start my dinner, I sampled an excellent extra virgin olive oil from Crete, paired with sourdough bread and olives marinated in citrus. The red pepper velouté hummus was also delicious, adorned with crunchy chickpeas and accompanied by fresh vegetables. The grilled baby gem lettuce in `mama`s` salad added elegant smoky flavours to the dish, while spring onion and dill added freshness. The exquisitely grilled octopus paired beautifully with fava bean purée and caper sauce. The melding of the metsovone cream with the sauce from the braised veal cheeks, served with orecchiette pasta, was equally harmonious. For the lamb kleftiko, tradition took precedence. Although I found the dish lacking in intensity of herbs and acidity, the vegetables were exquisitely cooked, and the lamb was tender and delicious. The sashimi sea bass with jalapeño, yuzu-koscho mayonnaise emerged as a flavour highlight of the evening—seasoned and served at the perfect temperature, it brought a refreshing sea breeze to the table. It added chic, spicy, and acidic tones, while the flakes of dried onion on top added a beautiful crunch. For dessert, curated by pastry chef Manolis Stithos, I found the galaktoboureko a bit sweeter than I would have preferred; however, I truly enjoyed the exuberant profiterole with Madagascar vanilla ice cream and three types of chocolate—gianduja, praline, and dark.
The bottle-filled structure in the bar area, starting from the floor and extending to the high ceiling, is a testament to the importance of spirits at Yaboo. The drinks list comprises cocktails and spirits, while the wine list—a creation of Konstantinos Lazarakis—includes bottles from the Greek vineyards, mainly with no shortage of international labels. The music is curated by Prokopis Doukas of Kosmos FM, who also stands behind the music decks every Friday, while on Saturdays Sakis Tsitomeneas (En Lefko) and Liana Mastathi (Kosmos FM) are in the same position.
Info. Akti Kondyli 4, Piraias, tel. 210 4224476
Operating hours: Monday-Saturday: 13:00-01:00, Sunday: Closed
*Photos: Anna Tasioula
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