Marsan: Hélène Darroze`s Restaurant in Paris is a Moving "Autobiography."

The challenge for a gastronomic restaurant to stand out in Paris is undeniable. Despite the ups and downs in the French capital`s dining scene, the standards remains unimaginably high across the spectrum of restaurants. High-end establishments often compete—politely— against one another, resulting in a culinary landscape where competition both drives innovation and maintains excellence. Yet, Hélène Darroze`s "Marsan", located at number four on Rue d`Assas, is not just one of the finest restaurants in Paris. Since it reopened its doors in 2019 after an impressive renovation, it has continued to thrive. The Michelin Guide awarded Marsan with two stars, validating its remarkable journey just two years after the restaurant hit the restart button. With a new design architecturally envisioned by Patrice Gardera, it embodies Hélène Darroze’s mission to convey, in the most heartfelt and warm manner, that her home, experiences, memories, and the places, producers, ingredients, and people deeply etched into her DNA will always be her fiery inspiration. Darroze is so deeply connected to the space that she decided to share some of her most personal items, including photographs of her home featuring her two daughters, Charlotte and Quiterie, as well as snapshots of her as a young girl playing with her brother, Marc, and images of her family`s Hotel des Voyageurs in Villeneuve-de-Marsan. You`ll also find her grandmother`s recipe notebook, a wine list from her beloved grandfather Jean, cookbooks, and a bottle of her signature epic Armagnac. Through Marsan, it feels as if she`s saying: "I have traveled the world, I have seen images, captured moments, and as much as I wanted to creatively liberate myself, It`s time to come home." And that`s exactly what she has done.

On the restaurant`s ground floor, there are two private spaces available for special occasions, and it`s also worth taking a look at their beautiful cellar. The main dining area is located on the first floor, where the open kitchen takes centre stage, along with a chef`s table that promises bespoke moments. Darroze`s cooking is rooted in tradition; she loves terroir, high-quality luxurious ingredients, and remarkable sauces. Remaining extraordinarily delicate and complex, she seamlessly integrates colours from her travels, even those in exotic landscapes, into her culinary palette. The executive chef at Marsan is Paul Genthon, who understands Darroze`s culinary philosophy and translates it into one of its most exciting, delicate, and refined interpretations. That afternoon, I tried almost the entire menu, and the series of excellent dishes still lingers in my mind as I reflect on my experience at Marsan. I will mention three dishes that I consider indicative of the high standards the restaurant now upholds.

The first standout dish was an oyster with an unimaginable taste and elegance, accompanied by oyster extract, Chinese lettuce, fermented flavours of Chinese cabbage, and Kristal caviar. Other menu highlights include the Breton blue lobster, infused with tandoori flavours and served in a carrot and citrus mousseline sauce, and the `black rice` with squid roasted in its ink, complemented by chorizo and tomato confit. Another notable offering was a piece of A5 Wagyu from Gumna, prepared in the style of how her grandfather used to cook fillet. At Marsan, every dish tells a story. If you get this far, be sure to save some room for cheese and dessert, which is no small feat. The baba au rum is particularly noteworthy—it`s incredibly elegant. They will also offer you a selection of aged Armagnac from the Darroze family, allowing you to choose the perfect pairing for your dessert.

GRADE: 9/10.

Info: 4 rue d`Assas, 75006 Paris , tel. +33 1 42 22 00 11

https://www.marsanhelenedarroze.com/