Noema, Invicta 2020

May 06, 2025
Simos Georgopoulos
The battle for the title of the finest Xinomavro of Amyntaio is fierce; however, Noema Winery`s Anikito truly seems unbeatable. RATING: 8.5/10.
  • NOEMA, INVICTA 2020 | Wine Reviews
Since its debut, Noema, founded by American investor David Wittig, has captivated me with the freshness, elegance, and impressive longevity of its wines. Although the winery, which began operations in 2021 with vineyards in Florina’s Xino Nero region, still lacks its own vineyards and winery facilities, it has managed to source exceptional grapes and vinify them exemplarily. Of course, this does not come as a surprise to those in the know, given that the wines are overseen by the outstanding oenologist Ilias Antoniadis, whose skills have been proven time and again.
 
Apart from an unfortunate Sauvignon Blanc I presented a few months ago in this column, every wine from Noema has received my enthusiastic recommendation. Naturally, their presence in the Amyntaio region positions Xinomavro at the forefront, with the exceptional Eruption and Invicta representing the rosé and red offerings of the protected designation of origin (PDO) Amyntaio, respectively.

Invicta originates from various vineyards within the region and matures for six months in 300-litre barrels. Its fifteen-day extraction period, combined with multiple immersions, results in a wine with an almost carmine hue.

The unusual, almost dark hue for Amyntaio extends to the nose, deviating from the typical red sour fruit profile. Instead, the bouquet reveals cherry, smoky notes, tomato marmalade, violet, and garam masala, creating a complex and intriguing aromatic profile.

Nonetheless, Invicta will also satisfy wine enthusiasts who favour a bolder palate. Typically light and refreshing, it begins with a subtle sweetness before evolving into a lift-like balance, with its exceptional tannins playing a leading role. These tannins deliver a lesson not only to other Xinomavro but also to many varieties considered more… refined.

The final virtue allows for serving at lower temperatures, with 12–14°C providing an ideal balance of sweetness and concentration without a trace of astringency. Of course, a good Pinot Noir glass is essential — the Riedel Vinum Burgundy is the best choice — and it’s best to avoid heavy, greasy dishes. Stuffed tomatoes, rabbit with tomato sauce, Bolognese-style pasta, and lentil salad are more than enough to create wonderful harmonies.

Invicta means "unbeatable," and Noema’s PDO offering largely justifies its name. With aromatic complexity and elegant palate, this Xinomavro unquestionably ranks among the finest in the region, all while costing less than €15. It also ages well for 3–5 years, although there’s generally no need to wait. What more is there to understand? It’s simply unbeatable!

Rating: 8.5/10

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