Those unfamiliar with the nuances often dismiss seabass as just another fish. Yet, seasoned anglers know that the ‘wolf of the sea’, as it is called, is arguably one of the finest of all fish. Although the Lykos family is best known for their legendary meat-focused taverna, they probably belong to the latter group, having chosen the name Loup de Mer for their new label, which is exclusively made from Vidiano.
This exceptional variety has established itself as an undeniable diva of Crete, its character having made it a travel companion for other vineyards across Greece as well. Personally, however, I have found most foreign attempts at producing Vidiano to be disappointing. I’m not referring to comparisons with Cretan Vidiano — I generally avoid making ‘parallels’ with the Motherland’s native wines — but rather to their capacity to deliver a consistent level of quality. Clearly, I do not believe that Crete is the only place capable of producing outstanding Vidiano, and I tend to attribute the underperformance of non-Cretan offerings to the youth of their vineyards and a lack of experience in cultivation and winemaking.
Therefore, Vidiano does not appear to be the easy, gentle grape that some might assume. However, the debut of Loup de Mer proves that the producer from Malakonta has embarked on a race towards creating an exceptional Vidiano outside of Crete — and ahead of many others in doing so.
Light in colour and bursting with expressive aromas of pear and banana, it justifies the second part of its name with a wonderful salinity that adds an extra layer of savouriness. Of course, Loup de Mer doesn`t really need it, as it is already tastefully balanced, sufficiently acidic, and quite convincing in both flavour and length. Naturally, it remains very young, promising an even better expression in 6–12 months.
This Vidiano also benefits from the relatively large volume offered by Stolzle Revolution Red glass and the not-too-low temperature of 12–14°C, allowing it to fully express its intensity and underlying richness. It pairs ideally with main dishes that require a refreshing touch, such as a pizza bianca, a pea risotto, fried chicken, or, of course, a sea bass cooked encrusted in salt!
This exceptional variety has established itself as an undeniable diva of Crete, its character having made it a travel companion for other vineyards across Greece as well. Personally, however, I have found most foreign attempts at producing Vidiano to be disappointing. I’m not referring to comparisons with Cretan Vidiano — I generally avoid making ‘parallels’ with the Motherland’s native wines — but rather to their capacity to deliver a consistent level of quality. Clearly, I do not believe that Crete is the only place capable of producing outstanding Vidiano, and I tend to attribute the underperformance of non-Cretan offerings to the youth of their vineyards and a lack of experience in cultivation and winemaking.
Therefore, Vidiano does not appear to be the easy, gentle grape that some might assume. However, the debut of Loup de Mer proves that the producer from Malakonta has embarked on a race towards creating an exceptional Vidiano outside of Crete — and ahead of many others in doing so.
Light in colour and bursting with expressive aromas of pear and banana, it justifies the second part of its name with a wonderful salinity that adds an extra layer of savouriness. Of course, Loup de Mer doesn`t really need it, as it is already tastefully balanced, sufficiently acidic, and quite convincing in both flavour and length. Naturally, it remains very young, promising an even better expression in 6–12 months.
This Vidiano also benefits from the relatively large volume offered by Stolzle Revolution Red glass and the not-too-low temperature of 12–14°C, allowing it to fully express its intensity and underlying richness. It pairs ideally with main dishes that require a refreshing touch, such as a pizza bianca, a pea risotto, fried chicken, or, of course, a sea bass cooked encrusted in salt!
Clearly, the debuting Loup de Mer is still a long way from being branded a top-tier Vidiano, but it has nothing to envy from similar early efforts by even the most renowned Crete-based wineries. Time will tell whether the wolf of the sea — and its sea bass — has truly caught a winner.
Rating: 7.5/10
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