Athens has long been renowned for its bar scene, both within its walls and internationally. However, when it comes to hotel bars, apart from Alexander`s Bar at the Grande Bretagne and Avra at Four Seasons, something seems to be missing from the recipe. I`ll say this as spontaneously as it comes to mind: the Koumkan, which opened just a few days ago at the artistic Semiramis in Kefalari, is something else entirely. Personally, I can say it`s the most beautiful hotel bar I`ve seen in our city.
I expected nothing less from a concept crafted by Green Garlic, which bears the signature and aesthetic of Aris Vezenes. The name "Koumkan" is inspired by the eponymous card game that once graced the parlours of old Athens. The venue is divided into two spaces: the first you encounter upon opening its stunning door is an elongated bar set in a room adorned with dark green hues and marble, functioning somewhat like an anteroom to the spacious high-ceilinged salon. In front of the curved bar, the restaurant unfolds in a space designed by Andrea Kostopoulo and James Mcanally of Manhattan Projects. In this sense, Koumkan is not just another bar; it doesn`t resemble the ones we`re used to. It blends two different atmospheres: multidimensional, highly metropolitan, and so elegant that you are instantly enveloped in its unique ambience. For a moment—or even longer—you might forget that you are in Athens. Indeed, this place is a sight for sore eyes!
As for whether it leans more towards being a bar or a restaurant, the answer is not straightforward. The balance has been thoughtfully considered, largely depending on the mood of the patrons. The menu, however, is quite extensive, with nearly thirty dishes divided into appetizers, crudo, crispy rice, salads, sandwiches, main courses, and desserts. That`s quite a selection! We have encountered such a comprehensive menu in no other hotel bar aside from Alexander`s.
The initial plan was to try some cocktails - their dry martini is excellent - and nibble on four or five dishes to get a first taste of Koumkan. However, as soon as I opened the menu, we quickly moved to plan B . The overall quality is quite impressive, and I believe that time will continuously work in the kitchen`s favour. I selected several standout dishes from Koumkan`s menu, including the juicy buttermilk fried chicken topped with caviar, the luscious and buttery toasted brioche with cheddar, Gruyère, and truffle, and the linguine served in an impeccable broth with Cabot pepper, truffles, and caviar, which were particularly formidable and delicious. For dessert, I wold highly recommend the millefeuille and Sachertorte. Finally, the food prices seemed quite reasonable given the Koumkan`s caliber, the hotel, and its location. While I can`t predict the future, I genuinely hope for favourable winds ahead, as it deserves to be loved and to inspire, paving the way for more such "cinephile" stories.
Info: Semiramis Hotel, Char.48, Harar Trikoupi Street, Kefalari, tel. 210 6284560.
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