The passing of Rosita Missoni (Jelmini) on the first day of the year (20 November 1931 - 01 January 2025 ) prompts a moment of reflection on the Missoni brand, as Rosita, alongside her husband, Ottavio (Tai) Missoni, played a pivotal role in definying Italian fashion.
The iconic Rosita was born in Golasecca, a town along the banks of the Ticino in Varese province, to a family of textile workers. "In my grandparents` workshop, surrounded by fabric and patterns, I learned everything about 1930s fashion, cutting it into silhouettes," she shared in a 2017 interview with The New York Times Style Magazine. She studied languages, and in 1948, she found herself in London for her studies. She attended the Olympic Games (London 1948), where she met her future husband, Ottavio Missoni. A track and field champion, Ottavio was one of the six athletes competing in the 400m hurdles final at the London Olympics, finishing sixth with a time of 54 seconds. The founder of one of the most iconic brands in Italian fashion was indeed an Olympic finalist. And which Olympic Games were these? They were the first following the 1936 Berlin Olympics, the first held after World War II. What an incredible story!
Ottavio and Rosita Missoni married in 1953 and had three children. In the basement of their home, they started a small knitting business originally named Maglificio Jolly. The name was changed to Missoni in 1958 when they received an order for 500 dresses from the renowned La Rinascente in Milan. Rosita designed the silhouettes, while Ottavio handled the patterns—special dyes, stripes, squiggles, chevrons—all in vibrant colours.
The legendary Anna Piaggi, editor of Vogue Italia, included Missoni creations in a 1965 photo shoot, solidifying the family`s business as a high-fashion brand. In June 1966, they achieved great success with their first fashion show at the Theatre Gerolamo in Milan, unveiling their Autumn/Winter 1966 collection to the press. In the autumn of the same year, Ottavio and Rosita met Diana Vreeland in Rome. Her famous phrase, "Who says there are seven colours? There are tones!" propelled them into the New York market.
If Emilio Pucci`s bold swirls defined Italian fashion in the `50s and `60s, Missoni`s zigzag, striped and colourful designs dominated the `70s. Fashion critic Bernadine Morris of the New York Times referred to the company`s knitwear as international icons, writing in 1979 that Missoni "elevated knitwear to an art form."
In 1980, they launched their first fragrance, which earned them an award. Ottavio also began designing wallpapers. By 1983, Missoni made their debut as costume designers at Teatro alla Scala in Milan for Donizetti`s opera Lucia di Lammermoor, directed by Pier Luigi Pizzi and featuring renowned voices such as Luciano Pavarotti and Luciana Serra. In 1985, they introduced a more accessible collection, Missoni Sport, and opened their first boutique on Madison Avenue, NY.
Throughout the 1980s and `90s, their creations were showcased in museums and cultural venues around the globe, affirming that their garments were regarded as art. Their office library is filled with awards and accolades from various corners of the world. They identify as “artisans,” yet the planet recognizes them as true artists.
In 1997, Angela Missoni, the couple`s daughter, took over as creative director, while her two brothers, Vittorio and Luca, continued to manage the family business. In one of her early interviews, Angela states: "My parents started as pioneers, trendsetters, but after their tremendous success, their fashion became classic. My mother felt trapped by the company`s business model. Until now, the focus has been on being classic, but we realised that classics need to be refreshed." As they embraced modernisation, Angela`s brothers, Vittorio and Luca, continued to manage the family business, which remains a family affair despite numerous challenges. They even featured Angela`s daughter, Margherita Maccapani Missoni, in their campaigns. The brand has successfully expanded into upholstery fabrics and home furnishings, all while operating under Rosita`s artistic guidance. The accolades and awards continue to pour in. Tragically, in 2013, Vittorio Missoni and his wife lost their lives in a plane crash in Venezuela while on vacation. Ottavio, then 93, could not bear the pain and passed away just a few months later.
In 2018, the family sold 41.2% of the company to the investment fund Fondo Strategico Italiano (FSI) for 70 million. In 2021, Angela Missoni stepped down from her role as creative director.
Seventy years ago, Rosita Missoni could never have imagined that she—and her beloved husband—would so profoundly influence the world of fashion. Over the years, she dressed some of the most glamorous women on the planet with her Missoni creations. She "embraced" corners of homes worldwide in the brand`s vibrant fabrics. This was always done with humility and an urban aesthetic that is increasingly rare. Italian fashion, it seems, is slowly losing its iconic figures. Will new talents emerge to take the spotlight? We can only hope.
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