Yaboo: A Surprising New Restaurant Bar from Georgianna Hiliadaki in Piraeus

In Pispilounta, a small mountain village on the island of Chios, people used to gather every day on two large stone terraces, under a roof that sheltered them from the sun and the rain. They called the place “Yaboo.” It wasn’t marked on any map — it existed out of need, as an antidote to loneliness. From that spirit, Kostas Lagos, a native of Chios whose life has long been tied to the shipping world, drew his inspiration to bring to Piraeus a place that evokes the same sense of togetherness as that old, makeshift meeting spot. And so, a year ago, Yaboo was born — overlooking the port of Piraeus, right across from Gate E7.

The photos of Yaboo don’t tell the whole story. Up close, the space has a warmth that can’t quite be captured in a frame — that mix of light, colour, and movement that makes everything feel alive. Its lines are clean, the design balanced, with materials that convey calm and familiarity. The walls, coated in a light-toned plaster, create a sense of continuity, while the low, warm strips of lighting soften the edges and weave the shadows in a carefully measured way. Velvety seats in shades of green and grey break the monotony, giving the room rhythm and visual harmony. The brass bar serves as a focal point — its surface almost liquid, reflecting the light and drawing the eye across the space. The layout feels deliberate, almost like a small city, with distinct “neighbourhoods” of tables, low seating, and visual lines leading towards the mezzanine, adding height and movement. It’s beautifully designed — and that table by the window, where the port glimmers through the iron mesh curtain, is a dream to sit at. There are outdoor tables too, though they’re somewhat less charming.

The menu at Yaboo bears the sharp eye and creative energy of Georgianna Hiliadaki. Together with Danae Voridou and Erasmia Balaska, she shapes a cuisine that breathes Greek spirit and moves with natural ease between tradition and contemporary flair. Aggelos Kotsiris, who brings extensive experience from restaurants in London, delivers each dish with technical precision, keeping the team’s rhythm vibrant and assured. One of Georgianna’s greatest strengths lies in the clarity with which she approaches her cooking. She knows exactly what she wants to achieve — and how to get there. Her contrasts are bold yet balanced, her flavours refined yet generous. Each plate reflects a kitchen with focus, confidence, and character. The Sea bass sashimi with Jalapeño sauce and Koscho mayo shows verve and freshness, while the Fresh tuna tartare carries a delicate sweetness that ties beautifully with the crisp crackers. The Taramas with bottarga and handmade potato chips is clean and luminous, with pleasant acidity and impressive length on the palate. The Spinach pie dumpling with yoghurt cream is tender and neatly crafted — though the filling could use slightly bolder aromatic notes.

I also loved the Open mushroom pie — a soft, well-baked crust with just the right moisture, topped with juicy pleurotus mushrooms, bright acidity, and plenty of fresh herbs that bring the dish to life. The Yaboo moussaka is generous and cohesive in flavour, with a well-judged balance of richness, though it slightly loses its visual appeal in that particular serving dish. Among the pastas, don’t miss the Linguini with langoustine from Chalkis, while even the tireless Orecchiette with slowly cooked veal cheeks and metsovone cream was beautifully executed and full of flavour. The Roast chicken with confit potatoes and barrel-aged feta absolutely won me over — juicy, aromatic, with a lemon-oregano sauce so bright I only wished there was more of it. It’s the kind of dish that transports you straight back to the kitchen of your childhood and to that carefree, sunlit essence of Greek comfort food. But the moment I truly wanted to stand up and applaud came with the Lamb stew “kleftiko”. I won’t say more — it’s worth visiting Yaboo for this dish alone. 

Desserts come from the talented pastry chef Manolis Stithos. I tried a bite of each, and if I had to single one out, it would be his profiterole — indulgent yet elegant, the perfect balance of pleasure and poise. There’s also a carefully curated wine list, overseen by Master of Wine Konstantinos Lazarakis, that completes the experience with thoughtful precision.