Same Cuisine, New Neighbourhood — Dopios Remains True to Itself in Glyfada

Just two weeks since opening, and yet Dopios in Glyfada — the younger sibling (or, if you prefer, the more southern sequel) to the original Dopios near Agioi Theodoroi in central Athens — already displays an impressive level of maturity. The new project, signed once again by Christoforos Peskias in collaboration with the Pitsilis family, seems to say: “I know exactly what I am” — a progressive mezedopoleio that honours Greek flavour without falling back on the predictable.

Peskias — with an appetite you can almost hear resonating through the dishes — approaches traditional meze with both reverence and measured creativity, alongside a subtle fusion spirit that never compromises authenticity. As I tasted the first few bites, a thought crossed my mind — one that might seem slightly out of tune with the times: I know these aren’t days for princes and grand visions — or are they, after all? Because if you can give this much care and value to the humble meze, perhaps you already possess everything you need to build something truly meaningful.

The Glyfada outpost of Dopios evokes the feel of an urban bistro in its aesthetic, yet manages to keep the essence of the mezedopoleio very much alive. It hasn’t fallen into the trap of adapting “for the southern suburbs” — neither in tone nor in pricing. The menu remains the same, as does the philosophy: whatever is made, is made with the same intention. Whether it overlooks the chapel of Agioi Theodoroi in central Athens or Laodikis Street in Glyfada, the food here is consistent — and meaningful.

One of the first details that stood out was the offering of gluten-free bread — a rare find in Greek restaurants. The avocado tzatziki, a nod to Athinagoras Kostakos’ signature dish, impressed with its fine acidity and creamy texture. The smoked herring salad came two ways — fillet and spread — and worked beautifully together, offering both substance and depth. The graviera and kasseri croquettes were impeccably fried, well balanced and full of flavour, although the tomato chutney served alongside overwhelmed them with excessive sweetness. The sausage from Filiatra showcased the quality of the ingredients, but could have used a touch more moisture — something was lost in the cooking. By contrast, the sardines with fresh oregano and ladolemono were exemplary: grilled to perfection, with a thick, vibrant oil-lemon dressing that proved just how powerful a dish can be when it’s prepared without hesitation.

The sweetbreads from lamb were cooked with precision — crisp where they needed to be, tender and juicy inside. The sauce, meat-forward and made with spicy horn peppers, had just the right level of heat — clean and punchy, without going overboard. A dish that keeps you wide awake. Literally. The meatballs — “the good ones, like at the other place”, as the menu confidently puts it (and rightly so) — were exactly that: good. Possibly even better. Peskias has long since made meatballs one of his signature dishes, and there’s no reason to change a winning formula. Light, well-fried, fragrant, and deeply satisfying. The lamb burgers with mint chutney were nicely balanced, with a pleasant aroma and bold, well-rounded flavour. The faux pork gyros — served with yoghurt, tomato, grilled onion, and grilled pita bread — was a pleasure to eat, though it lacked a bit of juiciness to truly stand alongside the standout dishes.

We finished with two desserts: a galatopita (mile pie) tres leches — the kind of sweet that makes you say “well done” before you’ve even reached the last bite. The Macedonian halva semifreddo had a great base and is a clever idea, but the coconut caramel topping weighed it down more than necessary.

Dopios in Glyfada hasn’t tried to reinvent itself — it’s arrived exactly as it is: same menu, same prices, same signature style. It carries the same rhythm, the same culinary mindset, the same attention to detail — and a price-to-quality ratio you rarely encounter in the southern suburbs. In a city where the restaurant scene often shifts without quite knowing why, it’s refreshing to see something stay true to itself — for all the right reasons.