Patio: The "vindication" of Panagiotis Yakalis

Eight years will be completed this year since the summer of 2016 when Patio debuted in an inner, quiet courtyard of The Margi as its purely gastronomic restaurant. For obvious reasons, it was a tough bet that Panagiotis Yakalis made from the start since it was at those few tables that he would unfold the high-end version of his cooking.

Besides, Patio was, from its first day, the primary carrier of the creative expression of the very talented chef without any discount. He did so to such an extent that by 2019, it seemed clear that Patio was rolling towards international accolades. I wrote at the time that this is a cuisine that delves into high gastronomy since the chef`s compositions reflect many of its characteristics: the excellent raw materials, the advanced and, in some cases, exceptional technique, the complexity, the harmony between the individual ingredients in each creation, the deep deliciousness. In the case of Yakalis, I praise the intensity of flavour since it is always dominant in every dish, but without contradicting the finesse. It is no coincidence that the restaurant has been consistently awarded two FNL stars in the International High Gastronomy category over the years.

Last October, the Michelin Guide validated Patio`s undeniably high creative and technical level with a star. At the same time, its direct connection with The Margi`s farm, from which they source much of the raw materials used in their dishes, earned it an extra green star for the sustainable practices it meticulously adopts. This is a very welcome but expected development for anyone following Patio closely, as it has breathed new life into the restaurant. The charming makeover includes a stunning built-in wine cellar and a wine room visible from all its tables, adding a touch of elegance and sophistication. It`s worth more than a look at his updated list. They`ve done an excellent job there too. The service at this restaurant has always been attentive, but the last time I went to write this review, I found it better than ever. Airy, discreet, polite, efficient.

Moving now to the flavours, let me tell you that you can choose between two tasting menus, one with eight stages at €135, which is quite extensive, and a second, even more extensive one with twelve stages at €185. If I had to condense my most recent experience at Patio into one sentence, this would be it: Panagiotis Yakalis gives a recital of virtuosity, finesse and deliciousness in a series of his favourite specialities, which he continues to refine and evolve. A top-notch bite of the welcome bite, the foie gras and eel pasteli, which I learned will be developed into a regular dish in the future. The braised cuttlefish with tomato water, egg tarragon and spinach pesto is a bomb of endless - yet subtle - umami, a rich and savory taste that lingers on the palate, but more delicate than the previous times I`d tasted it, and the sea urchin mousse with ouzo foam also arrived. Culinarily exotic, Yakali`s signature lobster with incredibly delicious carrot puree and a fresh mango salad impressed with its delicate power, while his perfectly cooked lamb, accompanied by olive puree and ginger-flavoured aubergine, cooked while keeping its texture juicy and crunchy, brought the dinner to an impressive climax.

The series of desserts from talented pastry chef Manolis Stithos is exciting, with his truffled chocolate rightly stealing the show. But I would be remiss if I didn`t mention that in the mignardises, the standard is on a par with any restaurant with two Michelin stars. Wherever you stay in Athens, it`s worth walking up to Vouliagmeni to try Patio, which hasn`t yet thrown all the hidden aces up its sleeve despite being at its most significant moment. This restaurant has all the makings of reaching even higher, and I find it hard to imagine what will stop it.