OX Chop House: An Elegant Urban Meat Tavern

The idea behind OX Chop House to bring the Greek grill-house—complete with all its indulgent charm—into the modern day, served in a more contemporary and aesthetically pleasing environment, struck me as very astute from the start. Additionally, its location, opposite the Hilton— which I will always refer to as the Hilton— and in an area that hosts some of the best restaurants in the city, is unlikely to be a coincidence. The business is co-owned by Giannis Morakis, Giorgos Melissaris, Thomas Grubac, and Panos Politis, all of whom are highly successful and active restaurateurs. Until recently, the culinary direction was in the hands of Michalis Nurloglou, while the kitchen is now led by Tasos Theotokis.
 
What could possibly be holding the restaurant back from showcasing its true potential? Restaurants are a challenging "track." They require time, money, dedication, and persistence—all at their maximum. And, of course, they need a full house. From the start, OX experienced high footfall, and over time, it has continuously renewed the public`s trust. I first visited the restaurant shortly after it opened, and to be honest, I wasn`t impressed. Since then, aside from a table we booked for the FNL`s birthday about a year ago, I`ve returned now, prompting me to write this review. If I were to summarise it in the first phrase that came to mind while enjoying an astonishing lamb chop, it would be: "They took a while to find their footing, but they have truly found it."

I won’t ramble on. During this second visit to OX, the food pleasantly surprised me. Knowing how meticulous Giorgos Melissaris is, I expected to find some improvements, though I didn’t have overly high expectations. Yet, I was pleasantly proved wrong, which I realised from the fragrant greens pie (hortopita) stuffed with nettles and myzithra, as well as from a delightful melitzanosalata (aubergine dip) with beautiful intensity and a velvety texture that remains rustic at the same time. Additionally, the saganaki, while lacking the perfect contrast between the crunchy crust and the ideal creaminess of the cheese inside, was very tasty, and the drizzle of pollen complemented it perfectly.

Next up were the best dishes of the evening. The subtly spicy pasha kofte came out of the oven perfectly cooked, with juicy flesh, dense flavour, and enticing aromas. The delightful, honey-glazed tzigerosarmas (traditional meat dish) was also unforgettable, a "legacy" from Nurloglou`s tenure. Don’t leave OX without trying the lamb chops. They arrive finely trimmed, juicy, with their fat caramelised, as if grilled by a master from another era. They reminded me of those at Kritikos, and it`s the first time in years that I`ve felt this way. The diced lamb also offers great flavour, though it doesn`t quite reach the level of the chops.

The desserts are quite pleasant, with the highlight being their ekmek, served with pistachio ice cream, lemon zest cream, white chocolate, and mascarpone. I found the anglaise sauce drizzled over the chocolate log to be a good match, but it still needs a bit of work both in terms of texture, which is somewhat firm, and in the intensity of the alcohol. If they increase that, it will provide a sharper acidity to the dessert.

The service is pleasant and operates with professionalism and ease throughout the space, while the wine list, boasting over a hundred labels, is sure to impress. OX Chop House, the most Greek and comforting version of Brutus, has established itself at a good level, being entirely consistent with what it promises. Many of the dishes on the menu are so well-crafted, meticulous, and delicious that I couldn’t rate it anything less than 7/10. It is a complete and enjoyable restaurant for meat lovers, mainly suited for more relaxed outings, and although there is still room for improvement, it seems likely to evolve even further over time. If you love meat, it’s definitely worth adding to your plans. And because repetition is the mother of all learning, don`t forget to try the lamb chops when you go!