Marathia: The restaurant of Marinos Souranis in Tinos continues to excel

Although this year Marathia lost its wooden veranda along the beach, it didn’t diminish in the slightest its charm and significance. You can still see, hear, and feel the sea — not just from the atmospheric space now fashioned in the restaurant’s courtyard, but everywhere around you, even if you’re not directly by the water. Personally, I don’t consider this a loss at all. One characteristic of restaurants of this calibre is their ability to operate as a unified, powerful entity — maintaining a continuous flow of energy that’s transmitted seamlessly, without losing its coherence.
From the moment I first experienced Marathia — the restaurant of the indefatigable chef, restaurateur, and recently acclaimed author Marinos Souranis — I felt a genuine thrill in my heart. This place has captivated me not just through its food but through everything it represents — an unwavering dedication that is evident every day of the year, long before the doors even open.

Marathia embodies the spirit of Tinos, forever connected to the rugged beauty and proud culture of the Cyclades. It’s a living tribute to the island’s traditions, where each dish speaks the language of the land — a ‘window’ that bridges guests with the natural and cultural heritage of the place.

Here, food transcends sensory delight; it’s an invitation to discover the stories of those behind every stage of its creation — from the producers to the plate. Every element weaves a narrative of authenticity, passion, and craftsmanship, making Marathia more than a restaurant — it’s a heartfelt celebration of the island’s soul.

Marathia speaks a different language — the language of the sea. It’s the language of perfectly aged and carefully handled fish, a technique that Marinos Souranis was a pioneer of in Greece. His recently published book gathers a lifetime of knowledge and experience, sharing a fascinating approach to fish aging that finds its true expression here at Marathia. Missing out on this part of the story is like never really experiencing the restaurant.

This time, my dinner started with an incredible prosciutto made from stymphalia minnow, caught nine months earlier at its peak season. The aging process brought out amazing results: the meat was incredibly buttery, full of flavour, perfectly balanced in saltiness, and with an almost endless aftertaste. Having tried similar aged cured meats at several top international restaurants, I can say confidently that this prosciutto could be served anywhere.

After that, we enjoyed three more types of cured meats from their aging cellars, along with a handmade bottarga of grey mullet — which I also consider one of the highlights of the menu. 

On the latest news, the talented chef Valantis Tsakalidis has taken over the kitchen at Marathia, succeeding Michalis Marthas. And I have to say, the early signs are very encouraging. His dishes may not be pushing culinary boundaries in a creative sense, but they are perfectly aligned with the restaurant’s ethos — especially its commitment to zero waste. Tsakalidis has rolled up his sleeves and refuses to let a single fishbone go to waste; everything, in the end, is reused. From homemade pasta to everything else you can imagine, every plate shows a dedication to resourcefulness and respect for ingredients.

Another defining feature of their cuisine is the emphasis on space and the careful selection of ingredients. They beautifully grill wild Tinos artichokes, pairing them with tender slices of house-made ham and aged Graviera cheese. The clever “Seasar” — with crispy lettuce, semi-cooked prawns, tuna bacon, and tarama emulsion — offers a lively, well-balanced dish full of flavour and freshness. However, it could benefit from a more elegant presentation, as it currently lacks visual refinement. A more sophisticated plating would do justice to its potential.

Their wood-fired chickpeas are cooked to perfect tenderness, remaining firm yet sweet, coated in their signature sauce. Yet, the marinated cuttlefish that accompanies them, with its intense taste, slightly overpowers the delicate legumes, making it harder to fully appreciate the dish.

I don’t need to rave again about Greece’s best cheese pie — but I will mention the outstanding cod giouvarlakia (Greek meatball and rice soup) served with kakavia (Greek fish soup) and crispy vegetables, or the expertly grilled and smoked red mullet fillet, presented alongside roasted vegetables that showcase the kitchen’s high level of skill.

We closed with a rustic roasted snapper head, accompanied by a hearty, homemade pasta with fresh herbs, and a delicious orzo with shrimp, mussels, and calamari, cooked in seawater.

Among the desserts, while the ode to pumpkin demonstrates a lot of work and highlights a creative approach, the bread-made tsoureki with carob ice cream and crunchy almonds leaves a deeper emotional mark. It would be even better with a little extra caramelisation of the bread.

Marathia wouldn’t be what it is without the presence and vital contribution of Evripidis Apostolidis (pictured on the right), who passionately oversees the restaurant with his heart and soul, giving it the splendor and significance that elevate it even further. This is a restaurant that extends its reach beyond mere borders — connecting with the island’s botanical gardens, farmers, foragers, fishermen, and cheesemakers. It interacts deeply with the land, sea, and people of the island through an experiential journey that is both a nostalgic reflection on the past and a promise for the future.

I believe Daniel Humm (standing next to Marinos Souranis, second from the left) would agree with me — a master chef whose philosophy aligns with this vision of authentic, rooted gastronomy.