AbraOvata: The Surprise of the Athenian Riviera

The word "fusion" is one of the most misunderstood culinary terms—and not without reason, in my opinion. We’ve all been put off by the often hasty or forced interpretations that this concept can carry. As consumers (or critics, or even chefs) become more experienced, they tend to be less impressed by the rushed creativity that frequently hides behind the label. However, there are times when fusion feels so natural, so effortless, that the creator brings it out with such ease that the diner perceives it as the most normal and `correct` form of food. When these qualities are combined with genuine creativity and subtle originality, the experience becomes genuinely engaging. When all of this is executed with impeccable technique, it elevates the dish into the realm of high gastronomy. Such a case can be found in the kitchen of Executive Chef John Skotidas and the new Head Chef of Abra Ovata, Vangelis Dagdelenis.



It’s astonishing how many people still haven’t visited Lake Vouliagmeni! Years of indifferent or poor-quality developments have kept many away, but once you leave Vouliagmeni and turn left at the last traffic light, you cannot help but be in awe of the imposing and incredibly atmospheric scenery, with its captivating lighting. Beyond the stunning setting, both the restaurant Abra Ovata and the beach — now bearing the mark of Zeus & Dion — are beautifully designed. The atmosphere alone would be enough to ensure the restaurant’s success, and fortunately, that is exactly the trap they avoid.

John Skotidas lives and works in London (though he visits Greece for a few days each month). With a Greek father, a Filipino-Chinese mother, and having grown up in Panama, it’s easy to see why his approach to fusion comes so naturally and effortlessly. It also seems that he has found an excellent rapport with the highly talented Vangelis Dagdelenis—who brings with him a wealth of culinary experience from London—and sous-chef Yiannis Alimpalis. Abra Ovata’s menu draws inspiration from these diverse influences, excelling in originality and striking a perfect balance between deeply comforting flavours and the elegance that comes from flawless technique.

In Greece, we have an expression that translates to, "You can tell a good day from the morning,” and here, that couldn`t be more true. The meal begins with outstanding bread served with hoisin butter, a silky taramosalata delicately scented with kaffir lime, and an incredible spicy cheese spread with gochujang (fermented Korean chili paste). It’s an enticing start that seduces the palate from the very first bite. Following this, the “nigiri” with crispy rice topped with ‘Athenian’ salad with crab and bottarga, and the “ceviche” — a chilled, aromatic kakkavia (fish soup) infused with leche de tigre — completely capture your attention. At this point, your focus is entirely on the table while the sophisticated scene in the background becomes almost invisible. I won’t bore you with endless descriptions of dishes; after all, one of the restaurant’s key strengths is its remarkable consistency. That said, I will highlight just two dishes: the literally cloud-light fried sea bass, served with fresh spring onions, wild greens cooked to perfect al dente, and a soy-based broth — a true tribute to the minimalist, refined, and authentic Greek-Asian fusion. Equally noteworthy are the various impeccable paellas — from the gemista (stuffed vegetables) with paella to the king crab version, as well as the paella with duck, chicken, and sobrasada — each baked to perfection with the characteristic socarrat (the caramelised rice crust at the bottom of the pan), which is the hallmark of authentic paella.

Finishing such an evening and awaiting the desserts by Kaliopi Marou, I won’t hide that I was initially thinking she had a challenging task to meet the high expectations — especially since I personally often find desserts to be the weakest link. However, I was once again proven wrong, thanks to the lovely baba with plum wine and strawberry filling, as well as the exquisite, light, and subtly unsweetened reinterpretation of the classic banoffee, featuring salty caramel and savoury “soil” made of chocolate.

In closing, I must mention that the experienced Fotini Goula (former Brutus) has assembled a very capable service team, while I understand that the somewhat conventional wine list is being reevaluated and expanded. Last but not least, the prices at Abra Ovata are balanced and reasonable, without following the hype and price hikes often seen along the coastal road.