Taverna Ermou: Traditional Greek Flavours with a Modern Twist

In the historic heart of Athens — where Ermou Street stretches between Monastiraki and Psyrri — the influential Ergon team has recently unveiled a new concept that blends hospitality and gastronomy. Over its seventeen years of operation, the now multinational brand has evolved into a full-fledged lifestyle brand, remaining true to its core mission: to showcase the richness of Greek culinary culture and the exceptional quality of the country’s local ingredients.
 
With construction still underway on the hotel that will share the same building, the ground floor of the fully restored property at 98 Ermou Street has already opened its distinctive iron door. Stepping inside feels like entering an Athens of another era — one that’s warmer, more welcoming, and quietly elegant. The signature Ergon aesthetic is unmistakable at Taverna Ermou: rustic and modern elements play beautifully together in both the architecture and the décor, creating an atmosphere that’s relaxed yet refined. Mosaic-tiled floors, whitewashed walls, wooden sideboards, marble-topped tables, and shelves lined with Greek products evoke a sense of familiarity and understated charm.



The kitchen proudly flies the flag of Greek cuisine. Panagiotis Xanthis, the group’s executive chef, has designed a concise menu that clearly reveals his affinity for the sea. The dishes are well-composed, with thoughtful combinations of ingredients and subtle contemporary touches woven into a traditional Greek framework. In execution, it’s clear that the kitchen is still in its early days, with a few of the occasional challenges that tend to accompany a recently opened kitchen — elements likely to refine with time and experience.

On my first visit, I noticed the grilled bread with olive and sun-dried tomato spread and smoked kopanisti cheese on the menu — and of course, I couldn’t resist. The char lent it a wonderful aroma, while both dips were full of flavour. The spicy tirokafteri with feta and chilli pepper was rich and well-balanced, topped with slices of hot pepper and a few olives that gave a pleasant kick.

The warm, smoky aubergine salad came sprinkled with grated cheese, which suited it well, though I would have preferred a lighter touch and a hint more smokiness from the grill. The sautéed wild greens had a pleasing acidity but lacked a little bite, while the creamy tsalafouti alongside added freshness to the plate. The crispy phyllo and spinach–cheese pie dip had great flavour, though the pastry had been baked a little longer than ideal.

The orzo pasta with crab meat was perfectly cooked — each grain retaining its bite — though the generous use of herbs, while aromatic, slightly overpowered the overall balance. Finally, the grilled octopus with yellow split pea dip was nicely caramelised but more on the chewy side than I would have liked.

The desserts follow the same path of tradition with a contemporary twist, such as the yoghurt panna cotta with honey and nuts. As expected, the drinks list stays true to its Greek roots, featuring bottled and house wines, retsina, spirits and liqueurs, along with a selection of Greek craft beers.

Info: Ermou 98, Athens | Tel.: 216 6000 7440

Photography: Anna Tassioula