Traditions and national gastronomic heritages have maintained their authenticity through the centuries, thanks to a deep connection with their place of origin, a focus on local sourcing, the enhancement of regional ingredients, and a ceremonial commitment to terroir—the very essence of their land. This approach, which lays the groundwork for sustainability, serves not only as a means of preserving traditions but also reflects a conscious attitude that acknowledges the profound relationship between humanity and its natural environment. It demonstrates that the ingredients born and nurtured in one`s homeland can, in the right hands, provide remarkable gastronomic experiences. Beyond just creative dishes, these ingredients become codified stories and cultural narratives that reflect the identity of an entire region.
At the heart of this way of thinking are the great Italian chefs who have long championed the respect for local sourcing, raising the standard for this approach long before it became a global trend. For them, sustainable practices have been a singular path, as they knew—or had the instinct to foresee—that this was the only way to uphold the value of their gastronomy. Niko Romito has dedicated his life and career to promoting this culture. When he moved Reale from a ski resort in Rivisondoli, to a renovated 16th-century monastery just a few kilometres from Castel di Sangro in 2011, he decided to reflect the beauty of the terroir of his dishes. In a minimalist and crystal-clear manner, Romito brings to the forefront the subtle nuances of flavour that only fresh, local ingredients can offer. The result is nothing short of breathtaking.
Casadonna (as shown in the presentation photo), not only features Reale, which has maintained three Michelin stars since 2013 and was ranked 19th on The World`s 50 Best Restaurants list, but also offers ten guest rooms at very reasonable prices, enhancing the overall experience through accommodation. I could easily write as much about their delightful breakfast, or their fantastic wine cellar filled with selections that could take a week to fully explore, or the pivotal contribution of Christiana Romito at Reale, who is the very soul of the restaurant`s dining room. Reale would not be the same without her. The aesthetic of the space is also minimalist, with eight round tables set against a backdrop of calming white. Particularly with the daylight streaming though the glass windows, the environment appears tinged green to the eye. Reale is truly enveloped by nature.
Moving to the practicalities, you can choose between a 14-course tasting menu priced at €210 or opt for their à la carte offerings, with the flexibility to enhance the degustation with dishes from the menu. Prior to Casa Perbellini and 12 Apostoli becoming the fourteenth three-star restaurant in Italy, Reale, alongside Dal Pescatore, was one of the most accessible three-star restaurants in the country. What`s truly impressive is that the average age of patrons during various lunch services is ofter no more than thirty-five years old. This indicates that even in a remote location, an authentic experience overflowing with substance can consistently attract a diverse clientele, especially when prices are kept reasonable.
Most of Romito`s culinary philosophy focuses on revealing the essence of ingredients. He believes that each product possesses a unique character—a distinct profile that can be enhanced through the right culinary techniques. A significant chapter in his gastronomic journey is his exquisite, clear broths and the complex, deep extracts that demonstrate his ability to extract and showcase the "soul" of his ingredients to the fullest extent. His method of transforming an entire black cabbage`s "heart" into a broth has become legendary.
In one of his signature dishes, a broccoli leaf sprinkled with star anise becomes profoundly expressive in its simplicity. At this point, I would like to highlight another foundational element of his cuisine: the delicate management of bitterness. A remarkable dish is the trout with bay leaves and almond aromas, presented in a crescendo of complexity and contrasts, where the bitter element again prevails, yet is delivered with absolute finesse.
The pasta at Reale is equally impressive; take, for instance, the somewhat "simpler" linguine with tomato, lemon, and Parmesan, where the acidity and subtle bitterness of the lemon harmoniously complement the sweet and tangy tomato and the spicy, rich flavour of the Parmesan. I requested to try the pigeon, and although there was no sauce on the plate, its cooking and delicate aftertaste left a lasting impression. The lamb, served with a sheep`s milk sauce and hints of cinnamon, is beautifully balanced and precise.
Niko Romito illuminates at Reale the value of localness and terroir in fine dining since every dish is an immersion in the unique flavour of Abruzzo, but also practical proof that gastronomy can be sustainable and high. It is a philosophy founded on respect for tradition and the environment, which also inspires a new generation of chefs who seek proximity between man, nature and culture through cooking.
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