Strofilia, Mavros Konos

Mavros Konos made its debut on the market just three years ago, yet upon its very arrival, this PDO Nemea caused a stir unlike anything we’ve seen – or tasted – since the days when Gaia Estate first appeared on the scene.

The latter not only ignited Nemea’s wine revolution but also marked the transition from Agiorgitiko’s rustic, velvety charm to a denser, more modern and vigorous expression. Over time, producers such as Aivalis and Mitravelas refined this powerful, full-bodied aesthetic to its utmost — executing the “more is more” philosophy with remarkable precision.

Yet the global trend has clearly moved away from that direction, as red wines increasingly seek a lighter, more ethereal expression. Of course, those blockbuster styles still have — and will always have — their devoted followers. But the inky, jammy, high-octane, relentlessly tannic aesthetic is, quite simply, passé.

Today, the words fruit, freshness and moderate alcohol are on the lips of most wine lovers — and Agiorgitiko is one of the finest native varieties to embody this new direction. Of course, it can still produce reds that would make any over-extracted Cabernet Sauvignon blush and retreat, yet its bright fruit, refined tannins and vibrant acidity seem tailor-made for the modern palate. It’s no coincidence, after all, that even the simplest, tank-aged Agiorgitiko bottlings — light, uncomplicated and modestly priced — often express this balance more successfully than some of their so-called premium siblings.

When a recent house move forced me to empty out my wine fridge, I stumbled upon all three vintages of Mavros Konos released to date — and the idea of a mini vertical tasting immediately rang a bell. Granted, three consecutive vintages aren’t exactly enough to map out a full evolution, but the temptation was simply too strong to resist. From previous tastings, I already knew that the irreplaceable Riedel Vinum Syrah glass is the perfect vessel for a top-tier Agiorgitiko, and that this label’s delicate, light-footed style shows best at 13–15°C. So I made sure to give it the attention it deserved — and this premium Nemea rewarded me handsomely for it.

Mavros Konos 2020 (8.5/10) opens with a bright, youthful ruby hue that shows no trace of fatigue. Aromatically, it’s a challenging wine to describe — not because it lacks intensity, but because of the seamless complexity of its bouquet. Rather than presenting a collage of distinct notes — red fruits, sweet spice, graphite and leather — it unfolds as a single, tightly woven whole, recalling some of the world’s great reds. On the palate, it’s even more impressive: vibrant and poised, with beautifully fine-grained tannins and a cool, lifted freshness driven by lively acidity. The finish may not be the longest, yet the debut vintage more than compensates with its energy and precision. A wine that will continue to evolve gracefully through 2030.

Mavros Konos 2021 (8.5/10) presents a deeper, more brooding expression of the wine. The colour is a shade darker — a denser purple that immediately hints at its concentration. On the nose, it brings forward black mulberry, tarragon, dark florals and a touch of ink, all pointing to perfectly ripe fruit. The palate is fuller and more generous, with a touch of sweetness and more pronounced tannins reinforcing its darker personality. Acidity makes its presence felt mainly on the finish, where the wine stretches out with very good length, suggesting a cellaring potential of five to ten years.

Although the score may not fully convey it, the current vintage is, in my view, the finest to date. Mavros Konos 2022 (8.5/10) is the palest in colour and the most reticent on the nose, demanding time to reveal its aristocratic character of red fruits, violet, dried cranberry and a touch of ash. On the palate it leans closer to the 2020 than the 2021, favouring bright acidity and finely crafted tannins over fruit sweetness. The overall impression is one of restraint — a wine that recalls Cabernet Franc in both structure and poise. In fact, it evokes a great Cabernet Franc, with an exceptional length that suggests a decade of ageing potential.

The fact that all three vintages benefit from decanting has nothing to do with any lack of clarity — on the contrary, Mavros Konos is a benchmark of oenological precision — but rather with its need for oxygen to unlock the full complexity of its character. With the magnificent and much-loved Grand Cuvée by Skouras representing the more opulent and expressive face of Agiorgitiko finesse, and Gaia Wines yet to release the fruit of their newly planted, carefully selected clones, Mavros Konos currently stands as the truest expression of Nemea’s future.
And that future, it seems, will be anything but sharp or dark.