Last week, I shared a list of highly interesting red wines I tasted at Orbis Vini, an exhibition dedicated to wines from the world’s great vineyards.
In the mind of the average wine lover, great reds will probably always hold the upper hand. Yet it’s worth considering that many of these wines are often the result of a producer’s determination and sacrifice, whereas their white counterparts demand something far more elusive: a truly exceptional terroir. This is why world-class red wines are produced across virtually every wine-growing latitude, while genuinely great whites emerge from only a handful of places on the planet — the number of which can almost be counted on two hands.
As a devoted admirer of the latter, I had no reason to complain. Visiting the stands of importers whose portfolios I rarely have the chance to taste brought me face-to-face with superb white wines from both the Old World and the New. After much difficult deliberation, 19 of them earned a place on the list below.
Bish Wines, Golden Egg Chardonnay 2022: “For your Chardonnay only”, quite literally — since this Hawke’s Bay producer makes nothing else. Here, however, the vessels vary: fermentation and ageing in concrete eggs highlight freshness, tension and a finely etched line of acidity. A wine with at least 10 years of ageing potential. (8.5/10)
Black Canvas, Holdaway Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2024: Impressive work again from this New Zealand producer, this time with Sauvignon Blanc. The Holdaway Vineyard in the Dillons Point sub-region delivers an explosive aromatic profile — green capsicum (pyrazines), fresh herbs and cut grass — with a light body and persistent flavour intensity. (8.5/10)
Caroline Lestimé, Savigny-lès-Beaune “Les Planchots” Blanc 2022: Lestimé’s personal project produces Burgundies of striking weight and energy, and Les Planchots shows ripe aromatics with impressive depth. I’d confidently risk ten years in the cellar. (8.5/10)
Clairmont, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc ‘Les Palais’ 2024: Based primarily on Marsanne, this cuvée from the northern Rhône shows the grape’s classic character: sweet white-flower aromatics, yellow stone-fruit, a gentle buttery softness on the palate and a rounded, easy-drinking profile that remains supple without tipping into sweetness. (8/10)
Crystallum, The Agnes Chardonnay 2024: Named after Agnes Floyd, the first woman to obtain a driving licence in South Africa, this Chardonnay is a tribute from the Finlayson family. It offers sweet-and-sour richness, notes of malt, vanilla and subtle oak spice, all delivered with admirable finesse — and remarkable value at €22. (8/10)
Eva Fricke, Kiedrich Riesling Trocken 2024: The Rheingau winemaker demonstrates once again that even a “humble” QbA can be utterly addictive. This wine shows white-stone fruit, smoky mineral tones, and the first hints of petrol complexity. The palate is light, taut and sweet-acid, finishing with a subtle phenolic grip. Ageing potential: up to 15 years. (8.5/10)
Greywacke, Wild Sauvignon 2022: Kevin Judd — famous for his era at the legendary Cloudy Bay — presents a superb barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc under his own Greywacke label. Light-bodied yet impressively long, it carries green capsicum, wild yeast complexity, gentle texture and superb persistence. Will reward five years of cellaring. (8.5/10)
Hirtzberger, Axpoint Smaragd Grüner Veltliner 2023: Though the Axpoint vines are only (!) around 25 years old, the super-ripe fruit they yield is extraordinary. Expect pear, angelica, honey and a touch of botrytis, delivered with endless length and immaculate balance. Ageing potential: 10+ years. (9/10)
Hirtzberger, Setzberg Smaragd Riesling 2023: From one of the estate’s steepest and most dramatic sites — rising to roughly 300 metres with inclines close to 77% — this is a Riesling of world-class stature. Intensely expressive, with petrol, jasmine, phenomenal stone-fruit concentration and a finish that seems almost endless. (9.5/10)
Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume, Beaune Clos de l’Ecu Blanc 2022: From just 0.6 ha of 40-year-old vines, this cuvée fills the glass with incense, smoke and sweet orchard fruit. Beneath it lies razor-sharp acidity and a decade of ageing potential. (8.5/10)
Kumeu River, Coddington Chardonnay 2023: A lemon-curd, generous, gently smoky Chardonnay from Michael Brajkovich MW’s iconic New Zealand estate — whose wines are offered almost exclusively via allocation. Expect it to hit its peak around 2030. (8.5/10)
Marchand-Tawse, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Vergelesses 2022: From 30-year-old vines, this white Burgundy spends 14 months in barrel, developing a dense core of vanilla, lees richness and firm acidity. A beautiful wine with strong definition. (8.5/10)
Neudorf, Tiritiri Chardonnay 2023: “Is it Chardonnay or Sauvignon?” you might wonder on the first sip. This Nelson white is light, bright, zesty and bursting with green-pepper intensity, lychee and smoke. Best after five years. (8.5/10)
Pegasus Bay, Bel Canto Riesling 2023: A glorious New Zealand Riesling from Waipara, made from ultra-ripe fruit. Huge aromatic intensity of petrol and botrytis, off-dry sweetness, thrilling acidity and a feather-light persistence. (8.5/10)
Royal Tokaji, Szent Tamás Furmint Dry 2018: At a price point where others offer forgettable bottles, this great Hungarian estate delivers a superb Furmint from a First Growth Cru. Petrol, vanilla, dried flowers and vibrant acidity in a remarkable package. (8.5/10)
Thistledown, Walking with Kings 2023: The South Australian producer isn’t just brilliant with Grenache — this Roussanne/Grenache Blanc blend is rich, perfectly balanced and full of jasmine, vanilla and smoke. (8.5/10)
Vasse Felix, Chardonnay 2023: Selected parcels from Margaret River yield a beautifully structured, barrel-fermented Chardonnay packed with richness, acidity and smoky complexity. Should peak around 2030. (8.5/10)
Wild & Wilder, The Courtesan Riesling 2022: The Clare Valley team may joke that they don’t take wine too seriously and prefer fancy labels and modest prices — but don’t be fooled. This explosive, petrol-charged Riesling is seriously good. (8.5/10)
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