It doesn’t take long to understand why Sofoklis Vlassides is widely regarded as one of the most articulate ambassadors of Cypriot wine — even if, until 2013, the UC Davis graduate had focused primarily on international varieties. Over the past decade, however, he has turned his perfectionist eye to Cyprus’s most promising indigenous grapes, most notably Xynisteri and Giannoudi.
His passion is unmistakable, his communication skills natural, and the wines produced at his sleek, architecturally striking winery in Koilani are consistently among the island’s most refined. Vlassides farms 250 stremmata* of vines — 80 of them surrounding the winery — all planted between 700 and 1,100 metres above sea level. His scientific rigour and long-term experimentation have led to a portfolio where clarity of fruit, varietal precision, and site expression are at the heart of every bottle.
Alates 2022 (8/10) is a barrel-fermented cuvée that is still tightly wound but already reveals subtle exotic notes alongside aromas of wild yeast and cereal grains, complemented by a delicate tannic structure and a low pH. The name Alates means “wings” in the local dialect — a fitting metaphor for the producer’s ambition to give this Xynisteri variety true lift and expression. While the 2022 displays a firm structure and restraint, demanding at least five years of careful cellaring, the 2018 vintage (8.5/10) confirms that patience is richly rewarded. It is full-bodied, impressively long on the finish, and aromatic, with layers of vanilla, yellow fruit, and mango, beautifully balanced by integrated acidity, resulting in a wine of exceptional quality. The 2020 (8/10) sits stylistically and chronologically between the two, adding a refreshing citrus note to its flavour profile.
Oroman means both “vision” and “dream” in the local dialect — and I’m keeping both meanings, as this label is truly a dream wine that realises the producer’s vision of crafting a world-class wine from the island’s flagship variety, Giannoudi. The Oroman 2018 (9/10) includes a touch of Syrah, delivering a mineral-driven, elegant, and peppery length that fills the room with aromas of sour cherry and black cherry. The 2021 (9/10) is denser, more intense, and darker-fruited, yet it never sacrifices an ounce of finesse or lingering finish. It also boasts a taut acidity and tannic structure that promise to captivate for at least another decade.The Oroman 2022 (8.5/10) is the first vintage produced exclusively from Giannoudi. It requires at least the same ageing period to integrate its oak influence and achieve a palate that matches the intoxicating nose of blackberries, hibiscus, and spice.
Just four kilometres separate Vlassides Winery from Oenou Yi, the creation of the well-known Vassiliades family of lawyers. Situated just outside the picturesque village of Omodos, Oenou Yi’s impressive winery facilities evoke a sense of the prestigious wine region of Drama.
The same holds true for the vineyard itself, as Oenou Yi is surrounded by 1,200 stremmata. These expanses also delight the eye, with the hills of Afami and Laona rising up to 1,060 metres, offering a breathtaking 360-degree panorama from this remarkable vantage point.
There’s a distinct feminine touch in the air here, with Anna Maria Vassiliades leading the entire project and our very own Artemis Toulaki overseeing the winemaking. Toulaki’s experience with sparkling wines may well explain why the Pet Nat Brut Nature 2023 (8/10) – made from 100% Xynisteri – managed to win over even a sceptic like me. Bursting with aromas of yellow fruit and wild-yeast character, and playfully textured on the palate, it`s one of the finest pet nats I`ve tasted.
The winery’s aesthetic points to a modernist sensibility – a style echoed in the glass. The Xynisteri 2024 (7/10) is fresh and fruity, if somewhat light on structure; the Promara 2024 (7.5/10) adds more volume and floral lift; while the Vasilissa 2024 (7.5/10), crafted from another of Cyprus’s trendy native white grapes, is the most generous and expressive of the trio.
The standout still wine in the current range is undoubtedly the new Lefkada Rosé 2024 (8/10), which makes up for its slightly muted blackcurrant aromatics with a wild, savoury edge on the palate that adds real charm. As for the reds, top marks go to the dense and structured Maratheftiko 2020 (7.5/10), with its dark-fruited nose and firm tannic backbone.
That said, don’t overlook the more accessible Plagia line. The White 2024 (7.5/10) brings energy and lift thanks to its Muscat component, while the Rosé 2024 (7.5/10) delivers soft, easy-drinking appeal from a rare blend of Xynisteri and Mavro.
When your final stop is Zambartas Winery, you know that last certainly doesn’t mean least. Founded by the late, great Akis Zambartas, the estate stands firmly at the forefront of Cypriot wine. Long before launching his own label in 2006, Akis had already left an indelible mark on the island’s wine scene. Today, the legacy continues under the skilled guidance of his Australian-trained son Marcos Zambartas and his wife Marleen, who, along with a talented team, have elevated the Agios Amvrosios estate to exceptional quality standards.
Driving the remarkable Zambartas portfolio is a powerhouse of 250 stremmata of meticulously farmed vineyards, cultivated with zero compromises. The crown jewel in this rare terroir collection is Margelina—a tiny cru planted in 1921, predominantly with Mavro.
This living monument of own-rooted, goblet-trained vines has only recently returned to production, rewarding the devotion of viticulturist Christodoulos Karaolis. The Margelina 2023 (8/10) sees just six months of ageing in neutral oak barrels, allowing its vibrant red fruit and spice-driven character—built on 15% alcohol and firm tannins—to shine, unmasked by wood influence.
The Xynisteri Single Vineyard pays tribute to another exceptional limestone parcel—Mandria, a 40-year-old vineyard perched at 900 metres altitude. The 2024 vintage (8.5/10) showcases the softer, expressive and easy-drinking side of this high-altitude terroir, while remaining well-structured. In contrast, the 2023 (8.5/10) is more austere, with a pronounced mineral backbone and evocative hints of wet wool, revealing the site’s cooler tension and ageing potential.
Of course, this winery doesn’t rely solely on grand Cru narratives—its multi-site blends are equally compelling. Those seeking proof in white form need look no further than the Xynisteri Amphitheatre 2023 (8/10), a wine that balances ripe orchard fruit and honeyed richness with a zesty, energetic core.
As for red lovers, Maratheftiko is the variety to explore. Demanding to cultivate—much like Mandilaria in Greece—it rewards the effort with black fruit, floral notes, herbal freshness, and a tannic, persistent finish. The Maratheftiko 2023 (8/10) leaves no doubt about the grape’s character, while the 2018 (8/10) offers a more mature and integrated profile, though no less tart on the palate.
The end of a journey like this is always bittersweet—so what better way to restore balance than with the sweetness of a fine Commandaria? The Melusine Commandaria 2012 (8.5/10), aged for a full decade in barrel, unfolds in a mahogany hue with a bouquet rich in volatile lift and sweet walnut, while its velvety palate delivers a truly enchanting close.
Cyprus has the people, the altitudes, the vineyards, and the wines—a combination many wine regions around the world would envy. A near-complete package, perhaps missing only one thing: a deeper belief in its own potential.
*Note: “stremma” is a Greek unit of land measure, equal to 1,000 square metres.
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