Mega Spileo Estate needs little introduction; any serious wine lover will already be familiar with its outstanding collection, defined by freshness, verve, and unmistakable character. The range draws its strength from gifted mountain vineyards – all perched above 700 metres – with the beating heart of the winery lying in the enchanting Megalo Ambeli, also known as the Metochi of Agios Athanasios.
After the Anastasios brothers revived the historic cru of the Holy Monastery of Mega Spileo and meticulously restored its stone-built facilities, the winery in Kalavryta chose to pay tribute to the monks who, for half a millennium, cultivated this singular terroir and vinified its grapes by traditional methods. Thus, two wines were released under the Heritage label, both created by foot-treading in the estate’s stone presses and matured in 1,500-litre foudres and 300-litre Italian amphorae.
The Heritage Assyrtiko undergoes skin-contact fermentation and only minimal intervention, practices which, together with those mentioned earlier, build a compelling natural-wine narrative. Yet this is carefully balanced by the rigour and undeniable expertise of oenologist Stelios Tsiris, resulting in a wine that carries all the charms of the so-called “natural” style without any of its common flaws.
In the glass, the Heritage White shines a golden hue, while the bouquet is concentrated, layered with candied fruit, wild yeast, sweet oak and tropical accents – a moderately intense yet intricate aromatic profile. On the palate it is equally impressive: despite its modest 12% ABV, it excels in both power and length, underpinned by ripe, generous flavours and a vibrant interplay of acidity and tannins. The latter are a touch assertive for now, but will certainly soften within two to three years, with the wine’s energy promising at least five years of ageing potential.
Indifferent to glassware – though showing a touch more length in the Stolzle Exquisit White 42cl – it expresses itself most vividly at 11–13°C, where its tannic structure finds ideal partners in rich, fatty meats such as rosemary-roasted kid goat or lamb chops.
Balancing beautifully between an orange wine and a top-class barrel-aged white, Heritage Assyrtiko honours not only the history of its terroir but also its €45 price tag. The fact that it is available exclusively at the estate may frustrate those eager to pour this powerhouse into their glass, yet at the same time it offers the perfect excuse for a visit to one of Greece’s most beautiful wineries.
Score: 8.5/10
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