Lyrarakis Winery, Micro Batch No 002 2022

In addition to a few well-known names, the unique treasure of the Cretan vineyard includes many lesser-known varieties. These varieties are waiting for the attention of a capable producer, first to prevent their disappearance and then (why not?) to embark on a brilliant career following in the footsteps of the esteemed Vidiano.

The Lyrarakis family certainly has a remarkable radar, having greatly contributed to our understanding of varieties such as Plito, Dafni, and Melissaki. The new Micro Batch series not only continues this exploration of rare varieties and exceptional vineyards but also expands its reach beyond the Heraklion region—the producer`s "home base."

Thus, No 002 captures an ancient expression from the Efendi vineyard in Rethymno, which is home to scattered (almost equal-sized) plots of the Vidiano and Dermatas varieties.

Unlike the first, the second definitely requires an introduction, but I’m not sure even the producer themselves could provide one! Perhaps a single-varietal cuvée would be helpful, but I assume the size of the plot and the blending of the vines make that impractical.

Let’s focus on the information regarding the altitude of 500 metres and the four-month maturation in barrel, and admire the yellow-green colour of this unique blend. The nose, while not overly intense, compensates with complexity, showcasing notes of yellow fruits, angelica flowers, citrus, and butter.

A single sip is enough to fill the mouth, as the 002 is quite generous and robust in structure, aided by the beautiful use of oak. Although the overall balance clearly leans towards softness and roundness—partly reminiscent of Tachtas—the wine is by no means flabby; however, it does fall short in intensity of flavour and consequently in the finish.

The temperatures of 11-13°C and the medium-sized Gabriel Glas StandArt will enhance every drop of length, while a Milanese risotto, lean white meat, or a serving of stuffed cabbage rolls will ensure beautiful harmonies at the table.

The Micro Batch No 002 is priced at €18, a cost that is justified by its rarity, the age of the vineyard, and the challenges of an offsite project. It also offers us a unique opportunity to experience (in some way!) the exotic Dermatas. While these factors alone would be enough to warrant a place in our glass, this distinctive wine is also simply lovely! Or, rather, a very nice wine if the intensity of flavour isn`t high on your list of priorities...

Rating: 8/10.

The Lyrarakis Micro Batch No 002 is available from the House of Wine.