Damaskios Winery, Ataraxia Rosé 2023 Copy Regenerate

I find the home wine tastings I`ve experienced at relatively recent exhibitions to be very interesting, as the ability to properly assess a wine after sampling 300 or 400 that precede it can be challenging. If you add fatigue to the mix, along with incorrect serving temperatures and the small quantities offered by producers—often regarded as the greatest issue in wine critique—you`ll understand the difficulty in arriving at a fair rating. This rating can easily be overestimated or underestimated, depending on the quality of the wines tasted beforehand and/or the influence on a palate that has become "galvanised" by stronger flavours.
 

Ataraxia made a significant impression on me at the last Drink Pink, and I wanted to see if my enthusiasm was justified, especially given my appreciation for George Damaskos`s work. The humble winemaker continues a tradition that spans three generations, with this rosé sourced from a family-owned vineyard of 150 acres in Nea Mesimvria, Thessaloniki (as are the rest of the wines in the range) and my favourite, Xinomavro.

The colour certainly creates a sense of... tranquility, as it is particularly pale with a subtle hint of onion skin. The intensity on the nose does the same, as the aromas of lemon, currant, and dried flowers are presented with careful restraint.

However, the Zen moments come to a halt with the first sip, which delivers a powerful punch with its formidable flavour intensity, a strength that rests on abundant acidity and almost "red" tannins. Yet, this wildness does not throw the wine out of balance, nor does it detract from its finesse and freshness, with the low 12% alcohol contributing to its elegance.

The Stolzle Exquisit Burgundy may seem excessive for a rosé, but when paired with temperatures of 11-13°C, it softens the astringency and further lengthens the finish. This rosé impresses in pairings with a wide range of dishes, as it has the acidity for fatty fish, remarkable structure for lamb, freshness for appetizers, and an appealing colour for romantic moments!

Ataraxia not only represents another high-quality offering from Damaskios Winery, but it also performs even better in the tranquillity of my home than it does at exhibitions. It is a fully expressive Xinomavro, and it doesn’t shy away from that; yet, it remains elegant, vibrant, and delicate. If it had a more expressive nose, it would certainly contend for a place in the realm of "Excellence." Even as it stands, however, it is one of the top rosés in the country!

Rating: 8.5/10.